FOURTH DAY, 53 
those dry channels so common in the “auen” or into a moist 
and verdant forest glade. 
Our “csikeln” glided silently but swiftly over the smooth 
waters, the clouds hung low, the air, saturated with the exhala- 
tions of the rich vegetation, was oppressive, and the prevailing 
tones of dull green gave a melancholy aspect to the scene. 
There was little bird-life to be seen around us, but the 
insects, especially the troublesome mosquitoes, drawn out 
by the damp warmth of the weather, were buzzing about 
everywhere, while innumerable frogs were throwing up air- 
bubbles and protruding their heads above the water. 
A brilliantly white Egret passed slowly over me, and was 
at once entered in my note-book, as it was the first which I 
had seen on this journey, nor had I met with any since last 
year, when I found them in the marshes of Lake Butrinto 
in Albania. 
A few more vigorous strokes of the paddles brought us to 
the end of the open water, where, turning to the right, we 
entered a splendid wood of high trees. Of all the “an” 
woods which I have ever seen this was unquestionably the 
most beautiful and the most interesting, being the very acme 
of the unfettered virgin growth of nature. ‘Tall willows were 
its characteristic trees, and some huge black and silver poplars 
with dead branches stood out among them. In many places 
there was no undergrowth, in others thick bushes grew ram- 
pantly. Old trees, overcome by the weight of years and 
choked by the younger ones, were bent and twisted into the 
most gnarled shapes; others, blackened by lightning, stood like 
ruins, half overthrown ; stems that had been hurled down by 
storms lay firmly imbedded in the ground and partly sub- 
merged, their decayed bark serving as a fruitful soil for 
younger generations, for high grasses and whole trees were 
growing from the dead bodies of their predecessors, while 
other trunks, uprooted by the floods, were drifting about 
