‘A JOURNEY IN THE EAST, 279 
were shown several jackals’ earths, and some which, according 
to the good people, belonged to wolves ; but as we could not 
get the dachshunds to go into them, we went back to the 
steamer and soon resumed our journey. 
Before long we came to a point where the Nile makes 
a sharp bend, and the mountains on both sides keep drawing 
in, until at Gebeleh they descend to the stream in abrupt 
cliffs, the rocks, ravines, and stony slopes of the high and 
barren Gebel-nisse, on the Arab side, being particularly fine 
and picturesque. 
We were enjoying this beautiful landscape from the deck, 
when I observed a dead buffalo lying on a sandbank sur- 
rounded by vultures ; and by the help of the glass I could 
see among the Griffon Vultures the enormous Sociable 
Vulture, that true native of inner Africa. 
Unfortunately the wary birds would not let the steamer 
come within range of them; so we at once stopped, and the 
Grand Duke and I went ashore. Some bushes near the bank 
afforded sufficient cover; and there we patiently waited, 
hoping that the imposing Sociable Vultures would return to 
their interrupted meal. But, alas! nothing came but a pair 
of greedy Egyptian Vultures, one of which I killed with the 
rifle. At the noise of the shot several swarthy and almost 
naked fellaheen came running up inquisitively, to whom we 
gave directions to lay out carrion for the vultures at this spot 
every day, and in no wise to disturb them, as I wanted to 
try my luck with the Sociable Vultures on my way back. In 
consideration of a good backsheesh the worthy people promised 
to carry out our wishes. 
On the 6th of March the steamer arrived at Edfu, where we 
at once rode across the fields to the poor-looking village close 
by, and passing through some narrow dirty streets reached 
its further side, where, amidst heaps of dirt and débris, 
stands the best-preserved temple of Upper Egypt, and one 
