282 EXTRACTS FROM 
crocodile, which was the creature consecrated to this god, is 
therefore often represented in the sculptures and alluded to in 
the inscriptions of this place. 
At sunrise we left the beautiful Kum-Ombu and continued 
our journey to Assuan. Towards noon the scenery assumed 
a still wilder character, and ahead of us the river seemed to 
be blocked by the mountains. Large stones, masses of rock, 
and rubble bordered the stream, which kept getting narrower 
and narrower; while the mountains on the right bank gave 
place to a barren plain strewn with masses of rock and studded 
with jagged pinnacles. On all sides sharp ledges of rock, the 
first indications of the adjacent cataracts, rose above the water, 
and the steamer had to make its way slowly through these 
difficult places before it could lay to under a high dusty bank 
in front of the town of Assuan. As soon as it had done so, 
we landed. 
Assuan is undoubtedly one of the most interesting spots of 
the whole Nile journey. Our first visit was paid to the 
bazaar, where the life and bustle of the place offered much 
that was interesting ; and I was especially struck with the war- 
like look of the Ababdehs, who were armed to the teeth, clad 
in scanty rags, and had their hair arranged in a peculiar 
fashion. The various races of wild folk regarded us with 
curiosity ; and the crafty Arabs sold us wares from the 
interior at a high price, cleverly profiting by the interest we 
displayed in them. 
The Ababdehs also performed their war-dance before us, on 
an open space between the houses and the landing-place ; and 
the brown fellows, with their scanty garments, nose-, ear-, and 
arm-rings, and hair wound round sticks, which stood out like 
rays, looked most original: it was a dance of savages, as 
fantastic as could be imagined. 
After a time we returned to the steamer, with a rich store 
of purchases and highly interesting impressions. 
