306 EXTRACTS FROM 
pretty gardens, country houses, and little palm-groves to the 
shore of the lake. On its sandy margin stood three miserable 
fishermen’s huts, behind us were lofty palms, thick hedges, 
and rich vegetation, and before us lay the broad interminable 
grey-brown lake, with its dunes and flat marshy shores—a 
scene of melancholy monotony and drowsy dullness. 
At Lake Menzaleh I could hardly believe that I was still 
in gorgeous Hgypt; the weather, too, was unpropitious, for 
the moist climate of the sea was making itself felt, and an un- 
pleasantly cold wind, was driving about the grey rain-clouds 
with which the whole sky was covered as with a sombre 
garment. It seemed just as if we were in the north, and we 
regretfully thought of the eternal sunshine of Assuan. This 
ugly lake might very well belong to one of the plains of 
Northern Europe; at least it was dull and dreary enough to 
have been worthy of such a situation. 
In front of the fishermen’s huts lay a flotilla of small sailing 
dahabeeyahs. I fancy that the reef-pirates of olden days could 
not have used worse crafts; our Istrian trabakels are perfect 
frigates in comparison with them. From these vessels, how- 
ever, we had to choose. The Grand Duke, Baron Saurma, 
the Court Chaplain, and I established ourselves in the largest, 
and two gentlemen in each of the others. There was also an 
extra boat for the cook and the provisions. 
All of them were uncomfortable, and a description of one 
will be quite sufficient. In the fore part of the vessel a raised 
deck round the mast was provided with some cane chairs and 
a little table. There we spent the day, and there the two 
jiigers and part of the crew had to sleep. This arrangement 
lifted up like a hatch, and displayed a small hold, which 
served as a receptacle for the baggage. Amidships, down a 
couple of steps, was a small deck-house, fitted with glass 
windows, and divided into two compartments, the first large 
enough for two small beds and nothing more; while the other 
