332 EXTRACTS FROM 
steps, through the whole church did we go, until there was 
not a corner left unvisited. 
We then walked through the narrow crowded streets to 
the house of the Greek Patriarch, inspected the synagogue 
and the celebrated Mosque of Omar, and, returning to the 
camp, mounted our horses for a ride round the city. 
In the glorious evening light we passed the burial-places of 
the old Jewish Kings and the tomb of Absalom ; we also saw 
Aceldama, the field of blood, and the barren, stony, grandly 
gloomy valley of Kedron: all is there just as it is described 
in Holy Writ, and I found Jerusalem and its surroundings 
just what [ had pictured them to be. Twilight was coming 
on as we slowly rode back to camp under the old walls, 
enjoying these deeply impressive scenes. 
On the 31st of March the whole party attended mass in 
one of the side chapels of the Church of the Sepulchre, and 
after service we went to Government House to call on the 
Pasha. We next visited the Coenaculum, the chamber of the 
Last Supper, which is situated on the outskirts of the town in 
a house arranged quite after the Hastern fashion. There we 
stayed but a short time, and then betook ourselves to our 
horses, which were waiting outside an adjacent gate of the 
town. 
The Grand Duke and the other gentlemen rode back to the 
camp, but Count Caboga and I followed the rough road lead- 
ing to the valley of Kedron, for we intended to ascend the 
Mount of Olives. 
The lowest slopes of this grey-green melancholy-looking hill 
are steep and very rocky, but higher up they are more gentle 
and are covered with flat rocks, loose stones, and gnarled olive- 
trees of immense age. At the summit of the hill, which we 
reached by a rough winding path, there is a small circular 
chapel with a little dome; this covers the spot from which Christ 
ascended to heaven, and one is shown on a marble slab the 
