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‘A JOURNEY IN THE EAST. 393 
footprints of the Redeemer, Near the chapel stands a minaret, 
and from its top there is a splendid view of Jerusalem and of 
the chain of grey-green steppe-like hills which separate the 
plateau, the immediate neighbourhood of the Holy City, and 
Bethlehem, from the valley of the Jordan. In the far distance 
one gets a glimpse of the high mountains east of the Jordan 
and the Dead Sea, and, through the dip of a valley, even of 
a little bit of the dark blue surface of that lonely inland 
sea. 
From the valley of Kedron we rode back towards our 
camp by the walls of the city, but at the slaughter-yards I 
dismounted and made.an unsuccessful attempt to stalk an 
Egyptian Vulture. Hundreds of large vultures were circling 
overhead, and dogs were wandering about the blood-stained 
place, which had such an abominable smell that I was com- 
pelled to beat a hasty retreat and get back to the tents through 
some olive-gardens. 
We dined early, as Count Caboga and I intended to go on 
to the Maltese Hospice at Tantur in the afternoon, while the 
rest of the party were to join us at Bethlehem, though not 
until the following day. 
I had now to leave Jerusalem, and, taking a farewell look 
at the grey walls of venerable Zion, I drove away with Count 
Caboga along the excellent road to Bethlehem, which runs 
from the Damascus Gate near our camp, and passes close 
under the ramparts.of the western part of the city. 
At the entrance to the valley of Kedron the road winds 
among stony flats, sparingly covered with bushes and scanty 
grass, and by ruinous garden-walls, stunted olive-yards, and 
dilapidated houses. On the right one sees the barrack-like 
buildings of the German colony, and on the left barren deso- 
late hills, the prettiest view being the look back at the high 
walls, battlements, and towers of the Holy City. 
The road then gradually ascends the opposite slope of the 
