“A JOURNEY IN THE BAST,’ 585 
flat rocks, bushes, and oak woods; and from the slope on its 
further side we had our first view of Nazareth, lying deep 
down in a bare stony valley. Passing through some 
wretchedly paved narrow streets we reached the other end of 
the little town ; but I was unable to visit the Church, the 
famous Chapel of the Annunciation, and all the other holy 
places, as the doctor had forbidden me, on account of the fever, 
to go into any cold cellar-like buildings. 
We found our mess tent pitched on an open space, and 
part of the caravan spread about among the grass, but most 
of the mules had already gone on to Jaffa with our baggage. 
A hasty lunch was now taken, and we then got into some 
low vehicles drawn by horses, which were here awaiting us. 
It is a good many years since this carriage communication 
between Jaffa and Nazareth was established by a Swiss 
contractor. The road, if one can so call it, defies all descrip- 
tion, and we were almost shaken to bits over the stones and 
rocks in going up and down the steep hillsides. We crossed 
some chains of little hills covered with stunted oak woods and 
evergreen shrubs, and. in the valleys between them were 
marshy meadows in which the vehicles threatened to stick 
fast. Fortunately the weather was fine and not too hot, and 
the country was rather pleasant looking, for many of the 
woods were even fairly luxuriant and full of flowers. 
After a long drive we reached the wide plain which extends 
along the bay, at the northern point of which is the celebrated 
town of Acre; while the southern cape is formed by the high 
Mount Carmel, which slopes down abruptly to the sea at 
Jaffa. The plain is well cultivated, and even pretty fruitful 
along the banks of the little river of Nahr-el-Mukatta. 
During the last hour that we spent in Asia we suffered 
tortures from the deep ruts of the terrible roads. Heavy 
clouds were forming on the horizon, the sun became obscured, 
and a cold sea-breeze seemed like a first greeting from that 
