THE CANVAS-BACK. 793 
our game-birds is a proper subject for inquiry on our part, and we are willing 
to testify as far as experience enables us. But as to the flavor of the Canvas- 
back, we are not a court of last appeal. We have never dined at Sherry’s, 
where, we are told, the price of ducks is measured by eagles. Moreover, 
the “wild celery” (Jallisneria spiralis,) which is the orthodox diet of the 
Canvas-back, grows in Maryland and not in Washington. On the whole, 
therefore, we are willing to accept the conclusions of the late Dr. Elliot 
Coues: “When feeding on wild celery the flesh acquires a peculiarly fine 
flavor, which has gained for the bird great renown among gastronomers; 
but its flesh is of no special excellence under other circumstances, in fact 
inferior to that of most River Ducks (Anatine). ‘There is little reason for 
squealing in barbaric joy over this over-rated and generally under-done bird ; 
not one person in ten thousand can tell it from any other Duck on the 
table, and then only under the celery circumstance just said.” Certainly 
a Canvas-back which has fed for two weeks or a month on our marine worms 
and crustaceans, with a few decayed salmon for relish, has little to offer a 
fastidious palate. 
The sportsmen of Washington, however, have little need to disturb 
themselves as to how their Canvas-backs are going to taste, for the birds are 
far from plentiful at any season of the year. They seldom arrive before the 
middle of December, after which time they may occasionally be found in small 
flocks, either in our fresh water lakes, or on the open water over against our 
tide-flats. In the central part of the State they often remain until well into the 
summer, and a few pairs undoubtedly breed along the reedy margins of the 
lakes in that region. 
The food of the Canvas-back is almost always obtained by diving, the 
vegetation being pulled up and the succulent roots eaten. \When the birds 
come to the surface with bills laden with the coveted herbage, they are fre- 
quently set upon and robbed by Widgeon and other ducks, which have 
assembled for the purpose. 
Considerable uncertainty exists as to the relative abundance of Canvas- 
backs and Redheads. Even in hand Redheads are often reported by sports- 
men as Canvas-backs, and vice versa. The resemblances are striking, but 
the differences are unmistakable, the best single mark of distinction being 
the sloping forehead of the Canvas-back, without noticeable angle at the 
base of the bill. The back of this bird, also, is much lighter in color. Both 
birds, moreover, bear a striking superficial resemblance to the females of 
the larger Mergansers, and many a poor “Saw-bill” has fallen victim to 
snap judgment in this regard. The Canvas-back is a heavier bird than any 
of the others mentioned, for when fattened on eel-grass it may weigh as 
high as five or six pounds. 
