94 EXCURSIONS IN MADEIRA 



I cannot speak too highly of the hospitable and obliging dis- 

 position of the proprietors of Porto Santo, who may be compared 

 with our smaller Welch farmers. I never pursued my rambles 

 without being entreated to turn a little out of my way to drink a 

 cup of their best wine, which was no small temptation, being the 

 pure juice of the richest grapes, without even a dash of spirit; and 

 before we quitted the island, one sent a dozen of this wine, 

 another, two dozen, a third, a fine turkey; agreeably reminding 

 me of the African custom of "making a dash" to a stranger: their 

 horses, their servants, all were at my service, and I was obliged to 

 start by daylight, to avoid the necessity of accepting the use of the 

 former (not suiting my route amongst the chffs and peaks), four 

 of which were sent for me in one morning. Instead of that 

 impertinent curiosity, accompanied by a broad laugh or contemp- 

 tuous sneer, which a traveller too often meets with from the class 

 immediately above the peasantry in Madeira, who ridicule every 

 thing they do not understand, and always take fresh pride to 

 themselves on discovering fresh proofs of their ignorance ; instead 

 of this feeling, which is made more striking by the polished 

 manners of the higher orders, and by the respectful civility of the 

 peasantry, the same class of men in Porto Santo, although prompted 

 by a more laudable curiosity, never ventured to approach an 

 instrument unless I invited them to do so, and then modestly 

 sought some explanation of its use and object. 



I had great difficulty in excusing myself from breakfasting and 

 dining with the governor, on each of the three days of my stay, 

 which I made the most of, by quitting the town at sunrise, and 

 never returning until dark. Every evening, however, after I had 

 deposited my spoils in the embryo shop of my friend Battista, and 

 inquired as to the sales of the day, and the rising prospects of the 

 new estabhshment, we both left off work, washed our hands, and 

 adjourned to the soiree of the governor's lady, who dispensed 



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