182 NARRATIVE. 



and dependants, we generally formed a party of twenty. Piles of 

 meat, stewed in grease, and oozing out their own under a burning 

 sun, which seemed to varnish the eaters as well as eatables ; large 

 tureens of stagnant soup, pyramids of bouilli; hors (toeuvres of 

 garlick, dressed in different fashions, were presented to us, escorted 

 by myriads of black flies, that disputed every morsel ; servants 

 were obhged to stand behind us, and continually wave large cloths 

 to keep them away ; if this exercise ceased for a minute, the table 

 would be almost black with these disgusting insects. The freedom 

 of helping, the calling of different people for salt, bread, <^c., made 

 it so like a cUligence dinner at a bad French inn, that could I have 

 altered personal appearance a httle, 1 should have fancied myself 

 making the grand tour. Before the dessert arrived, the younger 

 children, one of whom was only two years old, made their way 

 from the kitchens below, where they had acquired all the dirt that 

 would stick to their skins and clothes, and either bestriding the 

 backs of young slaves, or crawhng along the sanded floor, came in, 

 bawling for wine and fruit. One of them, laying his greasy paws 

 upon my silk gown, set his dirty foot on my knee, and in an 

 instant mounted on to his father's chair, where he was caressed for 

 the feat, and crammed tiU he was almost unable to return to the 

 lower regions. 



The breakfasts were as abundant as the dinners, and I was 

 informed, that a supper was partaken of nightly, that did not yield 

 in grossness to the other repasts ; and thus did these people, males 

 and females, with the thermometer ranging between 80° and 90°, 

 daily devour this enormous quantity of animal food, with smaller 

 meals intervening. I must not omit, however, to assure future 

 travellers, that Bona Vista affords excellent fresh butter, milk, and 

 eggs, things so grateful after a voyage ; or to praise the unbounded 

 hospitality of Senhor Manoel Martins. I have no dovibt he would 

 readily have extended his kindness to us for months, and he was 



