12 INTRODUCTION. 
the weary sameness of going up and down hill after hill, the 
journey seems endless. 
En route, however, by the shore, nearly opposite Tarifa, 
lies, shrouded in large thick bushes, the ruins of Alcazar 
Leguer, a large old castellated Portuguese fort, built about 
the beginning of the fifteenth century. Some parts of the 
walls are in fair condition ; but the interior is very much 
dilapidated, and the whole overgrown with wild olive- and fig- 
trees, brambles and rubbish, desolation beyond description, 
its only tenants being Owls and (say the Moors) evil spirits. 
A covered way, formed by two parallel high walls with ban- 
quettes on their tops, runs down to the sea- shore, where it is 
broken down and blocked up with sand j the ruins show signs 
of unskilful workmanship, and contrast very unfavourably 
with those of Roman construction, besides which, from being 
principally built of soft sandstone, they are much weather- 
worn when exposed to the rain. 
Wherever I have wandered about in Morocco the country 
is singularly destitute of trees of any size, what few there are 
being in the santos or graveyards. The consequence of this 
is, there is no change in the landscape ; stunted bushes, rocks, 
and flat cultivation constitute the general view. Never- 
theless the climate is splendid and healthy, perhaps better 
than that of Andalucia ; and one quits it with the regret that 
such a fine country should in these days of civilization be, as 
it were, utterly wasted — a land rich beyond most in soil, 
minerals, and natural advantages of all sorts, within five days 
of England, remaining without any real government, without 
roads, bridges, or any means of communication, owing to 
political necessities abandoned to barbarians and consuls, 
with both of whom the chief object seems to be to keep the 
country as much as possible secluded from the prying eyes 
of Europeans. 
