MOROCCO. 7 
than in any country in Europe. The real truth, however, is 
that the Moorish authorities throw as many difficulties as 
they possibly can in the way of inquisitive European travellers! 
well knowing that, were the interior thoroughly opened up, 
the vile system of oppression and misgovernment to which 
it is and has been for so long a victim, would vanish before 
the opinion of the civilized world. Although to those who 
are acquainted with the general system of Moorish rule (or 
rather misrule) it may not appear strange that such a 
wretched government should endeavour indirectly to check 
the influx of civilization, yet what does appear to me most 
strange is the fact that such a policy should be connived at 
by the representatives at Tangier of at least some European 
states ; and that this is the case is, I maintain, proved by the 
said representatives permitting, without murmur or remon- 
strance, the imposition of an exorbitant tax, in direct violation 
of the spirit of the last treaty, which secures for the subjects 
of those states free transit through the empire and the enjoy- 
ment of every privilege and right accorded to the Moors 
themselves. 
The vicinity of Tangier is as good a ground for the ornitho- 
logist as can be wished anywhere ; but it has been a great deal 
worked up by Olcesse, who succeeded Favier as the naturalist 
of Tangier, About twelve miles to the south are the lakes of 
Sharf el Akab, well worth visiting for aquatic birds. The 
country beyond this to Larache is not good until within the 
neighbourhood of that town, where there is plenty of both 
marshy and dry ground, the latter, in places, better- wooded 
than usual. Near Larache, on the north bank of the river, 
are the ruins of the ancient Lixus, at or near the spot where 
Hercules is supposed to have conquered Antaeus, the founder 
of Tangier, which takes its name from his wife Tinga. Very 
tolerable quarters are to be got in Larache at the house of 
one Rafael Pitto, a native of Gibraltar, who knows the 
country very well and is very efficient as a sporting-guide. 
South of Larache are the lakes of Masharalhaddar and Ras 
Doura, the latter running for miles southwards in the di- 
rection of Rabat. These lakes swarm with every kind ol 
