MANUFACTURE OF CHEESE. 393 



acid. The chemical composition of these two substances, as determined by- 

 analysis, is the same, or vei-y nearly the same, yet they are very difi'erent sub- 

 stances to our senses of sight and taste ; and the diflference is supposed to be 

 due to the transposition of the elementary atoms of the sugar. Some have held 

 tliat cheese is best made from new milk. It is true that when too much changed 

 only a hard, sour cheese can be made of it; it is also true that those cheeses 

 which bear the highest reputation and command the highest prices, both in this 

 country and in Europe, are not made wholly from new milk, but from evening 

 and morning's milk mixed. From all the evidence presented, no doubt can be 

 entertained that the latter is the better pi'actice ; or, in other words, that it is 

 desirable that the conversion of the sugar of milk into lactic acid should have 

 made some progress. The precise degree of acidity which is best is not defi- 

 nitely known, nor have we at present any easy method of measuring it with 

 precision; but practically it is found in family dairies that if milk is kept for 

 twelve hours at a temperature of about G5°, and the morning's milk be then 

 added, and the whole properly warmed, the best results will follow, and the 

 due separation of whey is more easily efl'ected. As this point is deemed one of 

 much practical importance, we quote from the best authorities in proof of the 

 position here assumed. 



Mr. Robert McAdam, of Gorsly Hill, a successful teacher of the Cheddar 

 method in various parts of England and Scotland, says : 



"When acid is not present in a sufficient quantity the curd will require lonp^er stirrinf? 

 among the hot whey, and too long stirring has the effect of hardening the curd and of making 

 the cheese stiff to cut and deficient in richness. When acid is deficient the curd will seem 

 excellent and taste sweet, but the cheese produced will be soft to the touch, ha^•c a tendency 

 to heave and bulge out in the sides, will be longer in being lit for the uuuket, and when cut 

 will not have that close, solid, compact body, nor yet that richness of quality and sweetnefs 

 of flavor which are so desirable. We are convinced that attention to what we haA-e stated is 

 the first and most essential principle of cheese making, and that the difference between fine 

 and middling quality is caused by inattention to or ignorance of these particulars. When 

 the temperature of the cold milk is 64"^ or upwards no sour whey ought to be used ; the acid 

 then present is a sufficient degree without it. When the temperature is GG'^ or upwards every 

 o^jeraHon of the process must be accelerated until the curd is taken out of the cheese tub 

 and cooled and salted, for when too great a quantity of acid is present it affects the curd .so 

 as to render the cheese hard and give it a sour taste. On the other hand, when the tempera- 

 ture of the evening's nulk is 5d-^ or under, it is beneficial to put the sour whey into the 

 dieese tub, before milking, along with the cold nulk, as this allows the acid to begin the 

 change, and promote the degree of acidity necessary. In large dairies less sour whey is 

 needed, in proportion to the quantity of milk, than in smaller ones." 



X. A. Willard, esq., of Little Falls, says: 



" The requisite degree of acidity in milk for producing the best results in cheese manufacture 

 is very imperfectly understood by most dair^'men. 



"Experienced cheese-makers have observed the fact that milk which has been cooled doAvn 

 to a low temperature and kept very sweet requires more rennet to form the curd, and when 

 coagulated is longer in cooking, and otteu will not work dowu firm, but will be soft and 

 spongy, forming what is termed a 'honeycomb cheese.' Many times a superabundance of 

 whey is rctainecl, and cannot be pressed out. This soon becomes sour and putrid, the cheese 

 does not cure evenly, but goes on depreciating in quality until it reaches a high state of de- 

 composition, giving off an offensive odor, and not uufrequently requiring immediate removal 

 from the shelves to the pigpen. When cheeses swell and puff up the whey oozes out, carrying 

 a portion of the butyraceous matter changed to oil, and are saved with difficulty, and when 

 saved cannot be marketed at half the ordinary price of good cheese. 



"The principal features of this character of cheese are given that it may be identified, and 

 because large quantities arc annually made during spring and fall, many dairymen not 

 knowing where the trouble lies, or how to obviate the difficulty. 



"-^^ow this results from manufacturing from milk that is too sweet, and which should have 

 been treated with sour whey. The use of sour whey in cheese making, when the temperature 

 of the evening's milk has been kept low, we deem of imperative necessity, if uniform, firm 

 cheese of fine quality be desired. It may be observed that milk should never have acquired 

 sensible acidity before setting with rennet, but should nevertheless be well on its way towards 

 that point. By sensible acidity we mean acidity that can be detected by the taste or smell. 

 Some milk is more acid than other soon after being drawn from the cow, and often, when 



