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22 Letters ofa Wanderer through England and Wales. [Feb. 3, | 
crevices of the rocks, and by their rich 
and vivid colouring, adding indescri- 
‘bably to the beauty of a scene replete 
with loveliness, variety, and richness: a 
scene, that cannot fail to elevate the soul 
to the Creator of the universe, and con- 
vey the bighest sensations of gratitude 
and delight. 
About the midle of the lake, alow pro- 
montory divides the water almost into 
equal parts, and there the depth is said to 
be upwards of fifty fathoms. Though in- 
ferior in size to several of the lakes in 
Cumberland and Westmoreland, Haws- 
water is no less distinguished .than its 
neighbours, by bold and romantic scenery, 
Like a number of amiable characters 
amongst the human race, it is hid from 
general notice by its retired sequestered 
situation, consequently known onty to.a 
few of the number, who make what is 
called the Tour of the Lakes,” and visited 
but by those who are capable of appre- 
ciatingits beauties, and bestowing on them 
that praise and admiration they so justly 
merite 
In Jength Haws-water is about three 
miles, and at the widest part does not 
exceed half an one. - It produces char, 
perch, trout, eels, bass, and other fish ; 
and its banks display the most beautiful 
assemblage imaginable of rocks and 
raountains, woods and cultivated grounds : 
in the whole, forming one of the finest land- 
scapes which a painter, or an admirer of 
Nature’s scenery, could desire to behold. 
You know my predilection for the simple 
beauties of Nature, and my dislike to 
whatever bears the appearance of art, 
ina spot where all that could be done 
to render it charming has been effected ; 
you will therefore feel surprised at my 
giving the scenery around Haws-water 
a decided preference to that which isnow 
to be seen upon the borders of some of 
the greater and highly-celebrated lakes 
in the northern counties, where all native 
simplicity and interesting loveliness is 
banished by the hand of art; which, as 
far as what is termed modern improve. 
ment could go, has tortured and distor- 
ted Nature’s works; dressed, shaved, 
and trimmed, spots, which were, in their 
original state, beauty without a fault, but 
which now exhibit only the formality of a 
-eitizen’s villa, and evince the absurd and 
glaring impropriety of erecting palaces 
and shew-houses where the surrounding 
objects present the boldest and most rug- 
ged features imaginable. or the ‘sweetest 
simple rural scenery, replete with pastoral 
beauty, harmony, and natural loveliness, 
¢ 
Of this number is Ulls-water, of which ¥ 
shall give youan account in mynext. At 
present, I shall hasten to conduct you te 
Penrith, which we reached after a plea. 
sant ride of about twelve miles, as the 
shades of evening had cast a sombre man- 
tle over the surrounding objects; when, 
being somewhat fatigued with our journey, 
and long fast, (for we had tasted nothing 
from the time of leaving Kendal but a 
little bread and milk in a cottage near 
Haws-water,) we enjoyed an excellent 
supper at the principal inn in the town, 
and sought repose in beds, which, for 
cleanliness and comfort, could not have 
been exceeded in a palace. 
Penrith, I believe, you have visited, or 
at leastknow so mueh of, that I need not 
attempt giving you along description of ° 
itself, or its immediate neighbourhood. 
Suffice it to say, the houses are of ared-" 
dish-coloured stone, in general wearing 
an air of peculiar neatness and comfort 3 
the streets are clean, and the whole place 
appears thriving, populous, and gheerful, 
The situation of Penrith is agreeable, be- 
ing in the midst of an extensive fertile 
plain, watered by the rivers Lowther and 
Eamont, on the banks of which are se- 
veral elegant seats and villas, where art 
and nature have united in rendering them 
abodes of comfort, convenience, and 
beauty. On the northern side of the plain 
there is a high extensive ridge, over which 
the road to Scetland by Carlisle passes, 
and whence there is one of the finest 
views inthe kingdom, As my companion 
had never seen this view, we rode to thé 
top of the hill on the morning of the day 
we passed at Penrith, and enjoyed the ~ 
sight of the surrounding landscape with 
much sstisfaetion; for the sky being 
wholly free of cloud or vapour,.we easily 
discerned the plain around the ancient 
city of Carlisle, about twenty miles dis- 
tant, and found the prospect only bounded 
by a chain of far-off Scottish mountains, 
losing all traces of individual grandeur as 
they seemed to mingle with the sky. Of 
Uliswater, on the other side, and its ma- 
Jestic towering boundaries, we had a bird’s- 
eye peep, and anticipated much gratifica. 
tion by a nearer survey of their beauties 
on the succeeding day. Inthe evening we 
had a charming stroll in the environs of 
the town ; and on the following morning - 
at an early hour, pursued our way to 
wards the justly-celebrated lake of Ulls- 
water, passing by some ancient mansions’ 
on the read to Pooley Bridge (where we 
purposed breakfasting), the heavy archi- 
tecture of which presents a striking con< 
trast 
