@14. Letiers ofa Wanderer through E nghind and Wales. [April !, 
may be ascended with less troubleand dif 
ficulty than by the straight walks. As 
soon, therefore, as our steeds were suffici- 
ently rested to resume their journey, we 
ursued the way along the western shares 
of the lake, the first bend or reach of 
Which displays l#s of that bold and pic- 
turesque scenery that attracts the notice, 
‘and calls forth the admiration of all be- 
holders, than-its remaining parts, where 
wriquestionably there is to be seen the 
most perfect assemblage that can be ima-, 
gined of varied, beautiful, and romantic, 
scenery. In my opinion, Ullswater being 
Snfinitely more worthy of admiration 
than any of the celebrated lakes in Bri- 
tain; surpassing in sublimity, diversity 
of objects, richness, and simplicity, even 
the pride of Scottish lakes, Loch-Lomond, 
undefiled by the hand of art, unin. 
Sured by the false taste of modern 
jinprovers; and Nature stil] maintains 
her just ascendancy over that which, in 
the environs of Derwent-water and 
Windermere, disSgure their original love- 
liness, and burlesque modern refine- 
ments; for surely it is one of the mast 
glaring absurdities imaginable, to erect 
fire shewy edifices and ornamented 
villas, resembling, in some instances, 
neither a cottage nora castle, on spots 
which ‘Nature has evidently. meant, if 
built upon at all, to’ bear only a plain, 
simple, structure, suited in its exterior, 
to the wildness, the romantic features, or 
the bold aspiring grandeur, of the sur- 
rounding objects. On the banks of Ulls- 
avater there are very few dwellings, be- 
yond an ordinary farm-house, or cottage, 
and those few are neither glaring in their 
appearance, nor erected with a view to 
display the owner’s extensive taste for im- 
provement, without paying the slightest 
attention to situation, or the visible dis. 
position of Nature in the accompa- 
niments. 
But, to return from my digression’: As 
we passed along the woody boundaries of 
the lake, the heights on either side grew 
gradually more aspiring ; and, about the 
distance of three miles from its lower ex- 
tremity, we passed a bold promontory, 
projecting far into the water, and com- 
pletely screening the second reach of the 
beautiful expanse, which here opens to 
the sight in the most enchanting manner: 
‘huge masses of rock, intermixed with 
‘trees and shrabs, grey towering preci- 
pices, backed by ridges of stupendous 
‘mountains, woods, spots of verdure,some 
small enclosures waving with the food of 
man, and a few rustic habitations, come 
‘pose one of .the finest landscapes in 
the universe; while, . on the opposite 
shore, an immense mountain, known by 
the name of Place-Fell, boldly projects 
into the lake, and hides the third reach 
of the water from the sight. “Some smalk 
islands vary the expanse, and add to the 
beauty of the landscape. We then pass- 
ed beneath a range of picturesque cliffs 
called Yew-Crayg, which rise to a consi- 
derable height above the road, adorned 
by numberless agea yews, hollies, thorns, 
and shrubs, sprouting from their crevices, 
and for a short time completely hiding 
the view of Gowbarrow-park, a scene of 
infinite loveliness, where nature is per= 
mitted to preside, and deck her favorite 
Spot in charms the most interesting ima- 
ginable. 
Nothing can be more exquisitely lovely 
than the view which here presents itself ; 
the lake, sweeping in graceful majesty, is 
bounded upon one side by the naked: 
front of Place-Fell, suddenly rising from 
the water’s edge; while, on the opposite 
shores, low woody promontories stretch 
into the lake, and the back-ground of the 
picture is composed of mountains of stu- 
pendous heights, and varied shapes, hud= 
dled together in the most extraordinary 
manner, some displaying bare and rocky 
fronts, and towering to the skies in solemn 
frowning grandeur; others more mild] 
receding from the vicinity of their aspi- 
ring neighbours, and in their deep and 
gloomy recesses, forming wild retreats, 
which a romantic imagination, or a lively 
fancy, might figure as the abodes of sylvan 
deities, or the haunts of merciless banditti, 
Determined to see all that lay within 
our reach on this excursion, and particu- 
Jarly desirous of exploring the Jeast fre- 
quented spots (though in general I have 
found them the best worth seeing of any) 
in the vicinity of the lakes, we resolved 
on taking a nearer survey of the beau- 
ties of Gowbarrow-park, and, ascending 
nearly half a mile, amidst a variety of ing 
teresting scenery, we alighted at the en- 
trance of Lylulph’s Tower, .a building 
erected by the proprietor of the grounds, 
(the present Duke of Norfolk,) for the 
purpose of a banqueting-house for par= 
ties of his Grace’s friends, who resort thie 
ther to view the charms of Ullswater, or 
enjoy the amusement of hunting deer in 
the park, of which there are hundreds of 
a large size, besides a great number of 
sheep and cattle. The duke has an an- 
cient seat, where he occasionally passes a 
short time, at the distance of a few miles 
from Gowbarrow; it is called ised 
an 
