Sir John Carv’s Travels in Spain. 
The stern and hostile aspect of the 
northern side of the rock softens into 
sceucs of rural beauty to the south, Icad- 
ing to Europa Put, Here well-cut 
roads wind through avenues of poplars, 
along the sides of yardens, and through 
groves of orange and citron-trees. The 
otheral house of the’ commissioner, ele- 
vated high on the rock, half-embosomed 
in a garden abounding with productions 
of the south, offers, at least in point of 
picturesque situation, a comparison un- 
favourable to the residence of the go- 
vernor, which stands in the town, at the 
_ base of the rock, in the principal street, 
and was furmerly a Franciscan convent, 
It is called “ the convent” to this day. 
Here, however, there is an excellent 
garden, kept in high order, containing 
orange and citrontrees, vines, flowers, 
and vegetables. ‘Towards Europa Point, 
there are also several other beautiful 
spots. Mr, Commissary Sweetland and 
his amiable lady iave a delightful cottage 
here, as well known for the elegant hos- 
pitality which reigns within, as for the 
beauty of tlie scenery without. 
On, this side of the rock is the cele- 
brated cave of St. Michael; this is a 
magnificent hail of nature, apparently 
supported by columns of crystalization, 
rude, brilliant, and beautiful, from which 
there are narrow and difficult passages 
leading to other apartments. During 
the war with Spain, and before the 
French arms became sullied bya spirit of 
ruthless ferocity, an intercourse, «istin- 
guished for its urbanity, existed between 
eur garrison and the Spaniards, such as 
did honour to the exalted sensibility of 
two great nations. Our officers were 
permitted to enjoy the sports of the turf 
within the Spauish territory, and, in re- 
turn, gave balls and other entertainments 
to the Spaniards. Upon some of these 
festive and generous occasions, the cave 
of St. Michael’s was accustomed to be 
brilliantly lighted up. Under these il- 
luminations, the effect of its roof, fretted 
and ricbly adorned with prismatic spars 
and dropping crystals, wildly resembling 
the minate and delicate richness of sara- 
cenic decoration, of its glittering sides, 
of its milk-white and semi-transparent 
columns, presenting all sorts of fantastic 
orders of architecture, ils numerous and 
mysterious recesses, the whole enlivened 
y groups of visitors gaily dressed, must 
rave been most singular and enchanting. 
Rugged, barren, and bladeless, as this 
ock appears at the height of this cave, 
still flocks of goats and even some cows 
633 
contrive to find pasture upon its western 
side. Vhe roads are excellent, and en- 
livened with persons riding backwards 
and forwards, ‘and even by barouches 
and other garages. 
In the town, there is an excellent gar- 
rison library in a handsome detached 
building. To the bails given by the mi- 
litary, the families of the merchants are 
rarely, if ever, admitted: this unpleasant 
line of separation has been drawn, in con- 
sequence of the great number of low and 
vulgar mercantile adventurers, who have 
‘ F . a, 
settled in Gibraltar. Universal toleration 
exists, without, as might be'expected, any 
inconvenience to the garrison, always 
excepting, however, the horrid nuisance 
produced by a fellow beating the bell af 
the Spanish Catholic church with a great 
hammer, many times in the course of 
the day, to the no little annoyance of 
every one in its neighbourhood. This 
noisy functionary is a great coxcornb in 
his way, and says that the English have 
good bells, but do not know how to ring 
them, and that he alone possesses taste 
in this way! I was informed, that an 
officer once, provoked by his noise, after 
repeatedly, but unavailingly, requesting 
him not to strike so hard, could not re- 
sist caning him when he descended, upon 
which the bell-ringer brought his action, 
and obtained damages; he now, there- 
fore, frequently shows his triumph, by 
the additional vehemence with which he 
strikes his bell, 
The traveller will do well to pay a visit 
to Catalan Bay, situated at the base of 
the eastern side of the rock, which is 
there perfectly inaccessible ; this spot is 
truly romantic and beautiful. Here, 
under the shade of vines and fig-trees, 
in company with some intelligent en- 
gineer officers, with a fine beach. and 
rolling sea in our front, and in our rear 
the cliffs of this mighty rock, on the sides 
of which several monkeys were playing 
their ‘ fantastic tricks,” we dined in re- 
freshing coolness, although it was sultry 
hot on the other side of the rock, 
The marble of Gibraltar is very beau. 
tiful, and admits of a fine polish: shells 
and petrified fish are frequently found 
in its 
The inns in the town, without being 
very clean or comfortable, are exces- 
sively dear; but there is one to which I 
would recommend the traveller of plea- 
sure to go, equal in neatness and com- 
fort to any in England, standing in an 
enchanting situation a little above the 
dock-yard and Europa Bay. . 
The 
