6 12 Cochrane^ s Journey to the 



scanty, poor, and dear; the best part 

 being exported from the latter country, 

 M^hilst the local impediments in the 

 other render them not worth that ex- 

 pense. Good comfortable log- houses 

 are here found in every village, immense 

 droves of cattle are scattered over an 

 unlimited pasture, and whole forests of 

 fuel may be obtained for a trifle. With 

 ordinary industry and economy, the 

 Russian peasant may become rich, es- 

 pecially those of the villages situated 

 between the capitals, both of which 

 might be supplied by them with butler 

 and cheese ; whereas, at present, not a 

 dairy exists, the peasantry contenting 

 themselves with the culture of as much 

 land, and the breeding of as many cattle, 

 as may be sufficient lor their immediate 

 wants. The women I have always 

 found engaged in some employment; 

 they make very good coarse woollen 

 cloths and linens, as well as knit stock- 

 ings and spin thread. The whole work 

 of the house is thrown upon them, 

 while they also partake the labours of 

 the field. I will not certainly recom- 

 mend, for the adoption of any civilized 

 countries, the treatment they receive 

 from their lordly masters. 



THE COUNTRY. 



The landscape on the approach to 

 Moscow, from the Petersburg side, 

 gives no promise of so great a metro- 

 polis, it being over a dreary and deso- 

 late waste. Nor does the immense and 

 ancient capital itself make its appear- 

 ance until the traveller is within two 

 miles of it ; when, upon rounding a small 

 low copse, sprinkled with a few genteel 

 dwellings, hundreds of spires and 

 steeples, domes and towers, flash upon 

 the eye, — one vast assemblage of build- 

 ings rising in the foreground, and only 

 the uncultivated Sparrow-hills upon the 

 right. 



MOSCOW. 



The view from the tower of St. John 

 is still preserved, that building having 

 withstood the lury of the general con- 

 flagration. The new imperial palace is 

 totally undeserving the name; and only 

 that a building is wanted upon the site 

 on which it stands, would call loudly 

 for another fire-brand. In every other 

 respect than that of population, I found 

 Rloscovv' the same as in Clarke's tin)e, 

 beautiful and rich, grotesque and ab- 

 surd, magnificent and mean. But 

 besides these general features, there is, 

 at present, one arising from latter cir- 

 cumstances, the city being only half 

 built, and the streets half finished ; and 



Frozen Sea and Kamtchatka. 



brick and mortar every where incom- 

 moding the passenger. Such is the ap- 

 pearance of Moscow, which is yet very 

 surprising, considering how recently it 

 has risen from its ashes. The former 

 number of churches, chapels, and 

 mosques (the forty- forties) is now re- 

 duced to less than half the number. 



VLADIMIR. 



Vladimir is a fine city on the banks 

 of the Kliasma, the ca|;ital of a small 

 province only, although formerly of all 

 Ducal Russia. Its situation is beautiful, 

 standing on a considenible eminence 

 which overhangs the river, and com- 

 mands a fine view of the surrounding 

 country. There are still remaining 

 many traces of its former greatness, as 

 the royal palace and gardens, a range 

 of public offices, and several handsome 

 churches. The day was hot, and I 

 took advantage of it to wash and dry 

 my linen, :iftcr which I lay down under 

 the bridge, and enjoyed a sound sleep. 

 In the evening I resumed my route 

 towards Nishney Novgorod. The road 

 was a heavy one, and when I had 

 passed seven versts all signs of culti- 

 vation ceased. 



PAULOVO. 



Arrived at Paulovo, distant fourteen 

 miles, over a cross road, and a beautiful 

 as well as fertile valley, studded with 

 villages, in the midst of which the Oka 

 makes its course. 



Paulovo is placed in a bay on the left 

 bank of the Oka, which is crowded 

 w ith small vessels. It is said to contain 

 eight thousand workmen, and is the 

 private property of General Shereme- 

 tioff, the head of which family, a minor, 

 is possessed of one hundred and sixty 

 thousand peasants. The general's pro- 

 perty is, however, a vile dirty place, but 

 the surrounding country, and the view 

 of it from the palace is very fine. 



I had not an opporhuiity of viewing 

 the immense iron works here carried on, 

 being anxious to get on towards Nishney 

 Novgorod, which J entered on the even- 

 ing of the next daj'. I had previously 

 passed through Selo-Kogorodskoye, 

 where I underwent a second lecture for 

 smoking in the village. The elder of 

 the village spared me, doubtless, how- 

 ever, on the same grounds as had ex- 

 cused me on a previous occasion. The 

 country appeared extremely populous, 

 and 1 felt liighlj pleased with my walk 

 on the elevated banks of the Oka, and 

 in witnessing its numerous establish- 

 ments of tanners and dyers, with such 

 extensive iron-work, that the neigh- 

 bourhood 



