013 Cochrane's Journey to the Frozen Sm and Kamtchatka 



is H black mould, is exceedirrf^lj' ricli. 



It is to Boiiiclitarma tliat colonies of 



S.co.tcli siiouid be sent, and indeed snch 



wsis the intention of the Emperor Paul, 



but it was set aside npon the breaking: out 



of a war, and lias not since been resumed, 



Ihongh there is no doubt that, at this 



itioment, such settlers would be both 



protected and encouraged. 



M. SPERANSKI. 



. Upon my arrival I found great pre- 

 parations making to receivt; his Ex- 

 cellency Mr. Speranski, the Governor- 

 general, who was making the circuit of 



the government to inquire into all 

 abuses, being possessed with unlimited 

 powers. His excellency arrived in tho 

 course of the second day, and was re- 

 ceived with the respect due to his rank, 

 integrity, and virtues. Two sumptuous 

 dinners were given by the chief of (he 

 district, the gardens were illuminated, 

 balls were assembled, and every one was 

 happy. I, of course, shone a conspi- 

 cuous object — indeed I was honoured 

 ■with the friendship and confidence of 

 both those gentlemen. Of General 

 Speranski I will only say, that I have 

 never seen more true greatness of soul, 

 or goodness of heart. There is in him a 

 certain condescension and atfability, 

 and at the same time a certain air of 

 nobility, that strikes all who approach 

 him with awe and respect. Of his per- 

 sonal attentions to me I shall ever feel 

 proud and grateful. He liud at first 

 taken nic for a Rascolnick, from my 

 long beard, and longer golden locks: 

 notwithstanding! wore at the same time 

 i^ long swaddling grey nankeen coat, 

 and a silken sash round my waist ; but 

 indeed so great a buck had I become of 

 late, that I hardly knew myself. As to 

 iny shoes, they were better than new, 

 although seven years had elapsed from 

 the time that Baron Bode had first used 

 tbem. 



' VOYAOE OF DISCOVERY. 



The governor-general told me that 

 there was an expedition on the river 

 Kolyma, fitted out purpc sely to solve the 

 question regarding the north-east cape 

 of Asia; and his excellency kindly 

 offered me his permission to proceed 

 with it. Too glad to accept a favour 

 of the kind, I instantly closed with the 

 ofTer, and determined not to wait a 

 moment in Irkutsk and Yakutsk beyond 

 the necessary time, but to proceed im- 

 mediately to the Frozen Sea, either to 

 share the fortune, good or bad, of the 

 expodition, or, in case of any impedi- 

 ment from] jealousy, to withdraw and 



follow some other plan. The goveinor- 

 gencral supplied me with various orders 

 and recommendations for whatever 

 places I should visit, as also an open 

 order " To the Judges of towns and pro- 

 vinces, to the Members of the provincial 

 courts of justice, and to all Commissaries 

 in the government of all Siberia," re- 

 commentling " that the bearer. Captain 

 Jolin Cochrane, of the British royal 

 navy, now travelling through Siberia, 

 should obtain every lawful protection, 

 defence, and hospitality, and that every 

 aid within the power of the towns and 

 provinces should be afforded him, in 

 case he should stand in need of them." 



With the above paper and a Cossack 

 I departed from Barnaoule, which I still 

 think the happiest, the best governed, 

 and neatest town in Siberia, for Tomsk. 



GOVEUNMENT OF IRKUTSK. 



I continued my route to Ingashe, the 

 largest, neatest, and most regular village 

 I have ever seen. The improvement, 

 upon entering the government of Irkutsk, 

 is indeed wonderful. The attention, 

 regularity, and order, as well as clean- 

 liness, every where to be seen, reflect 

 tlic highest credit on the police and late 

 governor of Irkutsk. 



As I proceeded, the road improved, 

 and the country ai)peared more fertile 

 arid picturesque ; much fine timber is 

 every where to be seen. Amid beautiful 

 scenery and much cultivation, a well 

 frequented road, broken with villages at 

 every eight or ten miles, carried me tu 

 an imperial village, where there is a ce- 

 lebrated manufactory of cloth. 



IRKUTSK. 



Having made myself as decent as my 

 limited wardrobe would allow, I called 

 on tho vice governor, who made great 

 promises, and exceeded them in per- 

 formance. Upon quitting his excellency 

 I made some visits, and delivered my 

 letters of recommendation, made in- 

 cpiiries as to my future movements, and 

 then returned to an elegant dinner with 

 my host, who had invited a party of 

 twenty persons to meet me; indeed, the 

 hospitality and attentions which were 

 showered upon me in this stage of my 

 journey were such as, I may fairly say, 

 I could have experienced in few, if any, 

 parts of what is called the civilized 

 world, especially when the humbleness 

 both of my appearance and pretensions 

 is considered ; even the ladies conde- 

 scended to visit the abode of my host — 

 a single man — doubtless out of respect 

 to me. The company consisted of the 

 same individtials whom I afterwaTds 



met 



