150 
we passed along by a burial-ground 
crowded with sepulchral pillars. The 
rapid torrents which rush down the 
hill carry along the putrified remains 
of the dead, and deposit them ina sfag- 
nant pool near the gate, occasioning by 
the effluvia, distempers not less injuri- 
ous than the pestilence itself. In the 
autumn of 1790, after the usual rains 
of that season, more than half of the 
inhabitants of the city fell a sacri- 
fice to the empoisoned atmosphere. 
But neither that awful event nor any 
other of the same kind have had power 
to prevent the Mahometans from aceu- 
mulating dead bodies in that horrible 
receptacle of destruction. 
Proceeding for a quarter of an hour 
we entered on a road bordered with 
reeds, fencing gardens of a marshy 
soil, but in general planted with vines, 
fig, and plane trees. Under these 
trees, the people of Thessalonica choose 
their walks, setting at defiance the 
chance of agues, which strangers have 
no way of shaking off but by quitting 
the country. Gaining at last the plain, 
as the wind blew hard from the north, 
we quickened our horse’s pace towards 
the khan or inn of Tekeli. On the way 
we crossed a broad heath, watered by 
a stream, drawn off from the Echedorus 
seven miles distant from the sea, for the 
use of a powder mill. Being still in 
winter, the waters were spread over the 
plain, forming a number of marshy 
pools; those parts not oceupied by the 
waters were either under cultivation or 
covered with flocks and herds, forced 
down from the mountain-pastures by 
the snow. At last we arrived on the 
proper channel of the Echedorus, now 
the Gallio, which no longer discharges 
its waters into the Axius. Its current 
being obstructed by mud, the Echedo- 
rus has formed for itself a course di- 
rectly to the sea, two leagues to the 
westward of Thessalonica. The accn- 
mulation of mud and gravel at the 
mouth seems to announce that the 
stream will again change its opening to 
the sea. The bogs aud pools on the 
banks obliged our guides to search for 
a ford, by following the marks and 
ruts of the country carriages; pass- 
ing over it and two small streams, we 
arrived at Tekeli, the first menzil-hané 
or post-house, distant two leagues and 
a half from Thessalonica, correspond- 
ing, perhaps, to the station ad decimum 
(the tenth mile) in the ancient itinera- 
ries. Of this the inhabitants’ have no 
knowledge: but they regard with peen- 
Recent Tour from Thessalonica to Pella. 
{March 1, 
liar veneration a teké, or convent of 
Dervishes, in the place, which thence 
receives its name. ‘Tekeli isalsomuch 
frequented by Turkish and Frank 
sportsmen from Thessalonica, on ac- 
count of the great abundance of game 
of all sorts. 
Having taken our meal here, we re- 
mounted our horses and crossed a 
muddy brook, leaving on the right La- 
poraand Harabli, villages distinguish- 
ed by alittle wood containing a tepe, 
tumulus, or barrow, never yet opened. 
A little further off are the healthy 
heights of Daoudbal, adorned with the 
villas of several opulent Turks. Be- 
ing distant only three leagues and a 
half from Thessalonica, to the same 
place repair many Franks for the re- 
covery of their health, and to avoid the 
pestilential air of the fever season. We 
observed several other villages on the 
way to the river Vardar, but I was un- 
able to collect their names. 
The bridge on the Vardar or Axius 
had been recently rebuilt of wood, in a 
form at once handsome and substan- 
tial; a proof of its having been erected 
by some architect much more skilful 
than any Turkish builder. The bridge 
consists of seventy-one arches, of which 
twenty-eight rest ona low island, over- 
flowed when the river is in full stream. 
Each end of the bridge is ornament- 
ed with a pavilion ; and in the middle 
is a strong wooden gate, which can be 
shut, and thus serves as a sort of trap 
to arrest robbers endeavouring to es- 
cape from one side of the river to the 
other. The whole length of the bridge 
is divided by a rail in the middle, for 
the guidance of carriages going, in op- 
posite directions, withvut crossing or 
interrupting each other. Many of these 
carriages passed us, loaded with wine 
of Niagousta, or Naouse, as the Greeks 
call it, a town situated twenty leagues 
or hour’s journey westward from Thes- 
salonica. : 
On leaving the bridge on the Vardar 
we entered on a plain, with many _se- 
pulchral barrows, extending to Sarili, 
where we overtook our Janissary sent 
on before us to provide accommodations 
in a khan ; and there we were obliged 
to put up, man and beast, all under the 
same roof. This village is situated on 
the road to Jenidgé-Vardar,.a place of 
considerable trade on account of its 
tobacco, reckoned the best in all Ma- 
cedonia. Sarili offering nothing re- 
markable for the stranger, we resumed 
our course southwards to a river, flow- 
= ing 
