1822.] 
ing from north to south to the lake 
Lydias, which formerly separated Ma- 
cedonia proper from Bottiaea. Cross- 
ing the river on a bridge, we passed a 
Turkish burying-ground, crowded with 
sepulchral monuments, formed out of 
columns drawn from the ruins of Pella, 
the city we were seeking. Turning 
several eminences, we halted in front of 
two barrows, of which the largest mea- 
sured fifty-seven feet in length, forty- 
three in breadth. and thirty-five in per- 
pendicular height. Immediately be- 
yond this monument we entered on the 
territory of Pella, situated, according to 
Herodotus, in the country of Bottiaea, at 
the extremity of Emathia. On our 
pi ee spread out vast open plains, in 
which the Bulgarian inhabitants, with 
their ploughs drawn by buffaloes, were 
employed in turning up furrows stretch- 
ing tbe whole extent of the country, so 
that they appeared like a multitude of 
husband men all employed in labouring 
one immense field. On our left and 
almost in front of us, were a series of 
fakes and marshes reaching to the sea ; 
thence, having passed some low - hills, 
we came within sight of the renowned 
Pella. 
The capital of the kings of Macedou 
dees not announce itself, in its desola- 
tion, to the eye of the stranger, as is 
done at Athens and Corinth, by the 
display of the remains of its ancient 
splendour. The position of Pella is 
known only from its correspondence 
with the descriptions of its site, pre- 
served in history. Thus it is described 
by Livy, in the conclusion of his 44th 
book : “ The consul M. Aumilius Pau- 
lus, proceeding from Pydna, after the 
utter discomfiture of Perseus of Mace- 
don, arrived with his army on the se- 
cond day at Pella. Encamping about 
a mile from the city, he there remained 
some days, examining the position on 
every side, and acknowledging that not 
without good reason had the royal’ re- 
sidence been there placed. Pella was 
seated on an eminence sloping down to 
the south west, and surrounded by 
marshes of impassable depth in summer 
as well as in winter, pirtddoad by seve- 
ral stagnant lakes. Within the marsh 
itself, on the side next to the city, ap- 
peared, like an island, the castle, or 
citadel, erected on a mound, a work 
of vast labour, which sustained the for- 
tifications, while it resisted all injury 
from the inclosing waters. This cita- 
del, couspicuous from its situation and 
Structure, was connected by a wall to 
Recent Tour from Thessalonica to Pella. 
131 
the city, and within that wa!l was a 
stream of water, over which was erect- 
el a bridge. From its positiou, it re- 
sulted, that although the city might be 
blockaded, yet the citadel was wholl 
inaccessible; nor, on the other freer 
if the king should shut up any person 
within the citadel, could he possibly 
escape but by the bridge, which might 
be very easily defended.” 
Conformably with this representation, 
the vestiges of Pella are found on an 
eminence sloping down to the SW., and 
encompassed by marshes. In vain, 
however, do we look for the walls of 
the city, for the citadel, for the dykes 
constructed to defend from inundation 
the temples, buildings, and other mo- 
numents of its grandeur: the barbari- 
ans from the North, the Romans, and 
the succession of ages have destroyed 
even the ruins. 
To Philip of Macedon, Pella was in- 
debted for its rank and magnificence 
among the cities of the east; and it 
must have been with a view to its 
strength, in a position inapproachable 
in ancient times by any hostile force, 
that he selected for his capital, a spot 
extremely unhealthy. Enlarged and 
improved by his son Alexander and his 
successors, Pella had attained a high 
degree of power and splendour, before 
it was taken and sacked by the adven- 
turers from Gaul, the forerunners of 
the Romans, who overthrew the city, 
after the conquest of Macedonia. Com- 
manding, by its position, the mouths of 
the Axius and the Lydias, Pella would 
naturally have become an important 
commercial station, had not Thessalo- 
nica, distant only twenty-onemiles, pos- 
sessed a safe and commodious port for 
shipping. But in ancient times, mili- 
tary strength and security, and not 
commercial advantages, were the ob- 
jects contemplated, in the founding and 
improving of cities. 
The Axius, or Vardar, having dis- 
charged a portion of its waters into the 
lake of Lydias, pursues its course to 
the sea, where it deposes its mud, and 
other matters. The passage conse- 
quently grows every day. shallower ; 
so that, in time, the upper part of the 
gulf of Thessalonica will becomea lake 
separated from the sea. Even at the 
present day, the depth of water in the 
pass is only about fourteen English 
fathoms. Fishing-barks ascend the 
Vardar fo the bridge of Colakia, on the 
great road from Thessalonica and Con- 
stantinople, for Thessaly, Epirus, &c. 
Looking 
