KEPOKT OF THE MICROSCOPIST. 103 



tlio flosli is white and dense and has a pleasant odor. Vittadina com- 

 pares it to that of plnms. It is somewhat dry and tough iu character, 

 and therefore requires slow and long- stewing, with plenty of liquid. In 

 selecting them for culinary i^urposes, crisp and heavy ones should be 

 chosen in preference to light and soft ones, being less likely to become 

 leathery in cooking. Some recommend soaking them in milk over night 

 to render them tender. 

 Mrs. Hussey gives the following receipt : 



Cut tlio iimslirooius across .ind remove the stems, put them into a closely-covered 

 sance-pau with a little fresh butter and sweat tLem, take them out, wipe, and stow 

 in gravy or fricassee tmtil tender at the lowest possible temperature ; a great heat 

 always destroys the llavor. 



A deleterious species of the cantharellus, ('ajiihcrellus aurantiacus, 

 often found iu rank grass or decaying herbage, is of the same color, and 

 by a careless observer might be taken for the wholesome species. A 

 little care and attention to detail, however, will enable one to distin- 

 guish one from the other. In the Cantliarcllus aurajifiacus the gills are 

 crowded, thin, and of a much deeper color than the pileus. 



FAIEY RING CHAMPIGNON. 



Marasmius oreades (Fig. 3) is represented by all mycologists as one 

 of the most highly flavored. It grows in rings in short pastures on 

 downs and by roadsides, but never in woods. It is very well marked, 

 somewhat tough, the solid stem particularly so. In color it is a bright 

 buft'. The gills are wide apart and are of a cream color. When dried 

 it can be kept for years without losing its flavor. "It is much used in 

 the French "a la mode" beef shops in London, with the view of flavor- 

 ing that dish.'' Eadham, Eev. M. J. Berkeley, and Mr. Worthington Gr. 

 Smith, of England, highly recommend the fairy ring champignon, and 

 it is said by experts in the culinary art that when boiled with butter it 

 has an exquisitely rich and delicious flavor. Mr. Berkeley says it is so 

 common in some districts of England that bushels may be gathered in 

 a day. 



Another species of this genus, found growing in woods on dead leaves, 

 is to be avoided. The gills of this species are darker in color and nar- 

 rower. It has a hairy down at the base of the stem, by which it may 

 also be distinguished. 



HEDGEHOG OR SPINE 3IUSHR00M. 



This genus, Hydnum rcpandum (Fig. i), being so well detined, having 

 spiues instead of gills or pores, is easily distinguished from all others. 



The pileus is irregular iu shape, depressed in the center, fleshy, and 

 pale cinnamon or yellowish iu color. 



Fh^sh Arm and white, turning slightly brown when bruised. The 

 spines are awl-shaped, of various sizes, crowded and running down, 

 paler in color than the pileus. Stem solid, at first white and then tawny 

 cream-color 5 spores round and white. There are no x^oisouons species 

 in this genus, although some are too tough to be considered edible. 



The Rydnum rejjandum is the most desirable. M. Eoques, an emiuent 

 French mycologist, says : 



The general use of this fungus throughout France, Italy, and Germany leaves no 

 doubt as to its good qualities. 



