374 Mr. H. T. Coledkooke's Remarks on the Setlej Rivei: 



grapes were now (10th Sept.) ripe, and tlie apples, which are tlie largest 

 observed in Kundivar, are of a delicious flavour. 



The mountains are clayslate, granite, gneiss, and mica slate. 



The travellers proceeded by the JVeraiig pass (1.3,000 feet above the sea) 

 crossing the Kesliayig river (a large and very rapid torrent forming a series 

 of waterfalls) by a good wooden bridge, to Pangpd or Fangi, 2,500 feet 

 above the Setlej, and 9,200 feet above the sea. There is liere very little 

 soil or level ground: the houses are crowded together; and the vineyards, 

 fields, and pasture lands, belonging to the village, are miles distant. 



The march was through a fine wood, large beds of juniper, and fine forests 

 of pine, most part of the way. The upper limit of tiie pine was observed at 

 12,000 feet, the highest birches at 1 2,500 feet ; and the rhododendron at 

 12,700 feet. 



This day (11th Sept.), Captain G. observes, terminated their adventures 

 amidst frost and desolation. They bade farewell to the serenity of a 

 Tartaric sky and its charms. " Before us," he says, " we beheld dark 

 clouds; we already felt the moist warmth of the periodical rains, and wished 

 ourselves back among the Tartars, their arid country, and vast solitudes." 



The rest of the journey follows the course of the Setlej, until it emerges 

 from the mountains into the plains of Hindustlian. 



They now entered the lower Kundwar, and crossing, by a sango, the 

 Malgun, a rapid torrent passing to the Setlej, they traversed a pine forest 

 along a belt of highly cultivated land interspersed with orchards and the 

 richest vineyards : in the midst of which is CItini, a large village, contiguous 

 to which are seven or eight others. The soil slopes gently to tiie Setlej, 

 and is loaded with fine crops. It is the most extensive plain in lower 

 Kundwar, and forms a striking contrast with the iieavy woods and rocky 

 cliffs which overhang it. Just opposite are the huge Raldaiig peaks. 



Here, on both sides of the river, grapes attain the greatest perfection. 

 Some are dried on the tops of houses ; some made into spirits ; the rest 

 eaten ripe. Eighteen varieties, distinguished by separate names, derived 

 from colour, shape, size, and flavour, are cultivated in Kundwar. 



From Chini, the road assumes very rugged features ; many rude balconies, 

 flights of steps, and notched trees occur. The soil is crowded with countless 

 varieties of gay flowers and many odoriferous plants. Cumin is plentiful, 

 and forms an article of export to the plains. 



