534 AGRICULTURAL REPORT. 
fields, and raised slightly above the level of the surrounding ground. 
If the subsoil is a close clay, fill in two or three inches of small stones 
or gravel, before laying on the above covering of litter and loam. A 
liberal supply of thoroughly-rotted manure, well dug into the bed when 
first made, will keep it in good condition for years, if forked over with a 
digging-fork in the spring, the weeds kept down, and the soil frequently 
stirred throughthe summer. Beds for hyacinths, tulips, and other bulbs 
are benefited by a covering of two or three inches of fresh horse ma- 
nure, or litter as it comes from the stable, put on just before the ground 
freezes, and raked off early in the spring. In growing bulbous roots, it 
is well to use one fifth common building sand; as, if the soil is too close, 
the bulbs are apt to rot, or to be thrown out of the ground by the frost. 
Large growing herbaceous perennials should be set deep. The depth 
at which bulbs should be planted varies somewhat according to their 
size, from two to six inches, and even eight inches for very large lilies 
and crown imperials. In sowing annuals it is impossible to lay down 
exact rules, much depending on the size of the seed. Soaking the 
seed before sowing is not generally advisable, except in the case of large, 
hard seed, ag Indian Shot, or those which are a long time in vegetating, 
as Globe Amaranthus. <A great mistake is made in sowing or trans- 
planting too thick; crowded plants never look well. One that is well 
grown will be more effective than a dozen crowded together, and give 
more and better bloom. Each plant should have room to develop its full 
proportions, and to show its foliage, often quite as beautiful as the flower, 
to advantage. Where herbaceous plants form too large clumps, and 
grow out of the ground, or die in the center, they should be divided and 
reset in early spring. Watering is not recommended, but when water 
is given, if should be applied in abundance, as close to the roots as pos- 
sible, and the soil saturated. A slight surface watering is worse than 
none at all. When plants droop, a judicious shading from sunlight is 
preferable to watering. By a little care in planting, with an eye to a 
suecession of bloom, a display of flowers can be kept up from May to 
November. In planting masses for effect, it is not wise to mix colors or 
even shades. Hach mass should be of one color; and if of the same 
plant, uniformity of habit and bloom is secured. In ribbon borders or 
beds, the contrasts should be striking, and the bands never be allowed 
to run into each other. 
The leaves of bulbs should never be cut off until they turn yellow; 
if removed earlier, it is at the expense of next year’s flower; for the 
stronger the leaves are grown, the better will be the condition of the 
bulb. The flower-stalks of bulbs should be cut off as scon as the flower 
has faded. Winter protection is best given by a slight covering of lit- 
ter or coarse manure. Hvergreen boughs laid over plants are excellent 
for preventing the alternate freezing and thawing so destructive in 
winter to herbaceous plants. aga 
After some general directions on the various modes of propagating 
plants, a list is given of the most desirable kinds, of easy culture, for a 
suecession of flowers through the season, beginning with the modest 
snow-drop and ending with the Christmas-Rose, with its blooms, pure 
white and beautiful, when all around is dark and dead. 
Mr. Rand concludes his directions for the management of a flower 
garden with these remarks: 
The propagation of plants is most interesting, both in study and practice. It is 
the creation of new individuals, which, while generally partaking of the character- 
istics of the parents in the case of seedlings, varies most wonderfully, and. continually 
gives new sources of pleasure. 
