GENUS MULLUS. THE SURMULLETS. 139 



greater difficulty. From Salviani we learn that 

 Galen states it was esteemed above every other 

 article of food, and that large ones were obtained 

 only at prodigious prices. Juvenal says, 



" Mullam sec millibus emit 



jEquantum sane paribus sestertia libris." 

 Six scanty pounds the Mullet weigh 'd ; 



Six thousand sesterces the wise man paid ! 



Seneca mentions that a Mullet of 4 lbs. weight was 

 presented to the Emperor Tiberius, who ordered it 

 to the market, where it was purchased by Octavius 

 for 5000 sesterces ; and Asinius Celer, of consular 

 rank, bought one during the reign of Caius at the 

 price of 8,000 sesterces, or about £65. It has 

 been well remarked by Mr. Griffith, that these 

 fishes stand pre-eminent in the annals of human 

 luxury, cruelty, and folly ; and in connexion with 

 them, pains have been taken to hold up the Roman 

 gourmands to the reprobation they really merit. 

 In their feasts they revelled over the dying Mullet, 

 while the bright red colour of health passed through 

 various shades of purple, violet, blue, and white, as 

 life gradually ebbed, and convulsions put an end to 

 the admired spectacle. They put these devoted 

 fish into crystal vessels, filled with water, over a 

 slow fire, upon their tables, and complacently re- 

 garded the lingering sufferings of their victims, as 

 the increasing heat gradually prepared them for 

 their pampered appetites ! 



(Sp.9.) M. barbatus. The Red Surmullet (VI III.) 



