So Kitchiner's Housekeeper s Ledger for 1826. [Jan. 



in deBperation ; counsel out of the way ; solicitors not af hand, or 

 neglecting to deliver over briefs ; causes of long standing, after struggling 

 to the top of the list, driven to the bottom of it, and suitors thus mocked 

 of justice by the act of the very solicitors of the court ; unseemly 

 squabbles between judges and counsel; new orders given, revoked, 

 renewed, and disregarded — neither method, nor despatch, nor perse- 



verance. 



Well, well — but we have a commission sitting — sitting, perhaps, daily ; 

 sifting all these evils, and inventing remedies. Yes, of professed ad- 

 mirers and ex-professors. Nay, not wholly so ; there is Dr. Lushington, 

 a civilian, and opposition member — Dr. Lushington I 



kitchiner's housekeeper's ledger for 1826. 



He who admires not Dr. Kitchiner is a man to be condemned ; or, as 

 Shakspeare remarks, he 



That hath not Cookery in his soul 



Is fit for plots, conspiracies, and treasons. 



As therefore every pious and well-regulated mind must admire the 

 science, it follows, by a just and logical deduction, that its great teacher 

 should be most particularly venerated. 



It is in vain to tell us that Mrs. Glasse is a learned and profound autho- 

 rity. We yield to none in respect for the wisdom of our ancestors ; but 

 no feeling of deference could compel us to swallow their dishes. Mrs. 

 Glasse was very well for the days of George the Second, in the darkness 

 pf the eighteenth century. Your men in bag-wigs and red-heeled shoes, 

 «worded and beruffled, stiff with embroidery and shining in satin, might 

 have masticated the various abominations recorded in Mrs. Glasse's 

 pages : They never can be admitted inside the mouths of men dandified 

 by Nugee, and booted by Hoby. As for the Scottish cooks, Mr. M'lvor, 

 &c. &c. we hope there is no necessity of pointing out to the civilized 

 part of the empire that nothing can be expected from them. How, in 

 fact, could they have learned any thing of cookery in Scotland ? An 

 eminent physician, whose name occurs in the works of the late Samuel 

 Foote (Dr. Sligo), informs us, that they have no cabbages in Scotland 

 J)ut thistles, and these they rear in hotbeds. As we never have been 

 jn Scotland, nor well recollect ever having seen a cabbage, we do not 

 exactly know how true the Doctor's observation may be ; but the very 

 name the Scotch give to their country is damnatory — the Land of 

 Calces ! Their songs, too, are full of odious allusions to unheard-of diet. 

 Just think of a Duke (Argyle) writing a ditty in praise of bannocks of 

 barley meal! and recommending them to be eaten with a claymore — which, 

 in the language of the barbarians of the north, is, we understand, either a 

 pitchfork or a hanger. Without going any further into the subject, we 

 may therefore safely dismiss from our minds all consideration of Cale- 

 donian cookery. 



Ireland is not at all a literary country, and it is not to be expected that 

 a great and comprehensive genius, fit for proper treatment of a powerful 

 subject, should spring up there. In fact we do not believe that a great 

 epic poet is likely to arise in that island. In about a thousand years, when 

 thty have tolerably exhausted the question of the infallibility of the Pope, 



