272 Recent Journey in South America. [Maxrcu, 
found that although half a mile in circumference, it was no where more 
than two inches in depth, and lay on the surface more like oil than 
water. We were, however, not to be deterred by its appearance, nor 
by the clouds of musquitoes that were hovering over it; but spread our 
handkerchiefs on the surface, and lying on our faces, sucked the muddy 
liquid through them, and felt it like nectar to our parched throats. The 
next instant the whole was converted into a quagmire, by the horses 
and mules rushing into it, and attempting in vain to quench their thirst. 
It was not till towards the middle of the next day that we again disco- 
vered a rushy marsh at the distance of about a league, and as this 
offered the probability, though not the certainty, of a supply of water, 
I hastened to it, accompanied by the capataz and our Cordovese scout, — 
which latter was the most active and skilful horseman I ever beheld. 
On approaching pretty near to the marsh, we discovered, to our infinite 
delight, a considerable quantity of rain water among the rushes, and 
were on the point of dismounting to partake of it, when suddenly a 
large Puma, or South American lion, sprung from a rushy lair where 
he had been couched, and instantly fled across the plain. This some- 
what startling appearance dispersed our thirst, of the sense of it, for the 
moment, and we all turned our horses in pursuit of the fugitive. I 
have elsewhere described the extraordinary skill of the Gauchos with 
their Jazo. On this occasion I had to witness a new instance of it in 
the Cordovese scout, who, presently coming up with the lion, cast his 
lazo over its head in an instant, and brought it to the ground almost 
choked by the running noose. On recovering himself a little, the lion 
seemed disposed to turn on his assailants and defend himself, but before 
he could rise, the lazo of the capatax was dexterously cast round his 
hinder legs, and the holder of it riding on, the lion was stretched on 
the plain by the tightened cords, without the power of moving. With 
the rapidity of lightning the Cordovese now dismounted, and the blood 
of the animal was the next instant gushing forth beneath his knife. 
After satisfying our thirst by returning to the marshy pool, the carcase 
of the lion was dragged to the carts, where the skin was taken off, and 
the flesh cut into small pieces, roasted and eaten, within an hour of 
our first sight of the living animal! The flesh, which I tasted, was 
very white, and resembling veal, but of a fishy flavour, but certainly it 
was much preferable to that of a newly slain buck, which was roasted 
at the same time. The flesh of the lion is esteemed a great delicacy by 
the Gauchos, and consequently a feast on one is looked upon as a treat 
of no ordinary kind. The next day we arrived at Melinquecito, where 
a lioness with two cubs was taken—the mother was killed and eaten, 
and the two cubs were put into one of the carts, with the intention of 
conveying them alive to Buenos Ayres, but for want of proper food 
they soon died. Close to the above-named place there was an enormous 
lake of salt water, having the character almost of an inland sea, for we 
could not perceive the opposite side of it. On this lake were immense: 
numbers of aquatic birds, and in particular, large flocks of the splendid. 
flamingo. On the firing of our rifles, these magnificent birds rese from — 
the water in vast numbers, and the effect of their gorgeous plumage 
shone upon by the rays of the morning sun, was brilliant beyond de- 
scription. 59 
On the 27th we reached Melinque, which was formerly a settlement: 
of some importance, but is now abandoned, having been previously 
