1828.] Don Alonso: ll 
distant from the church, and close by the burial-ground, where so many gene~ 
rations of simple and peaceful men repose, undisturbed by the soft murmur of 
the Ugarana, is a rustic house of entertainment, kept by the alcalde of the 
place. Above the entrance, I observed an escutcheon, rudely sculptured, 
which, from time immemorial, has denoted the importance of the inmates. A 
young villager, apparently about fifteen years of age, was leaning against one 
of the pillars of the porch, as if gravely watching the progress of time. I 
wished him to hold my horse: he remained immovable ; and I should have 
concluded he had not understood me, had not an expression of equal anger 
and disdain been reflected from his countenance in that of a crowd of children, 
which my foreign garb had gathered around. I was, therefore, obliged to. 
fasten my courser to a post of this rustic porch ; and by a ladder, which trem- 
bled under my feet, I ascended into a room that. possessed no. other furniture 
than a few worm-eaten tables. On entering, I perceived a man, seated, with 
a huge hat on his head, one leg thrown over the other, and regaling himself 
with a cigar. From the dignity of his appearance, I knew that he must be the 
owner of the house. I asked what refreshment I might expect? ‘ Whatever 
you bring with you!’ was the reply ; and he puffed away. I persisted in 
demanding if bread and’ wine at least were not in the house? ‘ To be sure—I 
have bread of the very best kind, and red Tudela wine in abundance.’ I 
hoped that eggs, which are so plentiful inevery village, would be added to my 
frugal repast: ‘ Look for them in the country !’ replied Don Jeronimo, who 
immediately relapsed into his usual silence. 
« The young Navarrese had followed me, and was standing at the thresh- 
old. Though his large eyes were fixed on me, he looked like one asleep. fk 
again ventured to solicit his services ; when a woman, bearing some domestic 
utensil, appeared. ‘ You are surely not so bad to please as that comes to,” 
exclaimed she, with amazing volubility. ‘ You must know that my son, the 
Sefhor Don Francisco de Paula, is not made for your service, but for God’s: 
he is about to take the habit of the Dominicans. He will then be respected 
by every body ; and some day, perhaps, God will be so gracious as to give 
Spain a saint of our blood and name. God be praised! he can count among 
his ancestors one of the colonels who, in the great battle near Roncevaux, were 
the chief means to drive the powerful Emperor Charlemagne beyond the 
mountains.’ The torrent stopt short. This modern Cornelia had no other 
clothing than a woollen corset, and a coarse stuff petticoat, which reached no 
‘wléwer than the knees, and shewed how her bare legs and feet had been begrimed 
by constant exposure to dust and sun. Her husband, mine host and alcalde, 
care, however, to give her the pompous appellation of Senora Dona 
ip re 
The stranger begins to fear, and not without reason, that, unless he 
~ deport himself with all due respect to the members of this illustrious 
family, short commons are likely to be his portion. He accordingly made 
mown, with proper humility, the cravings of his appetite to the said 
enor Don Geronimo, who, disdaining to apply himself to so ignoble‘an 
fice as providing for travellers, called aloud, “Francisca!” She at 
ngth entered the room, accompanied by amonk :— 
“ JT ventured to address myself to the pretty Spaniard. She listened to me, 
and shewed, both by her eyes and mouth, how my French accent diverted 
"her. At this moment, Dona Urraca entered, as indignant as on the former 
occasion. ‘ Do you know,’ demanded she, ‘ to whom you are talking? This 
young lady (Senorita) is as noble as the Senor Don Francisco de Paula, who will 
soon be called Fray (Brother) Francisco, if it please the Holy Mother of God 
to protect his vocation. She is the daughter of my brother, assistant-adjutant- 
general in the king’s service: and, though the general is enrolled amongst the 
enemies of God, his dignity still remains.” 
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