1828.) 
itself, altogether, the dirtiest in South Ame- 
rica. Yes, one other matter forced itself 
upon his notice—an earthquake—several, 
indeed, occurred during his short stay—but 
one was very severe, in the evening, when 
the streets were full of people. 
In my life (says he) I never experienced a sen- 
sation more awful—a noise resembling thunder 
was underneath my feet—the earth shook and 
trembled—a sickly sensation came over me, and 
Iwas nearly knocked down by men, women, and 
children, flying out of their houses, screaming 
** Trembler, trembler !’’ and running tov and fro in 
all directions. Some lay down on their faces; 
most of the men were kneeling, and crossing 
themselves, and praying to their saints for pro- 
tection. Children were clinging to their mothers, 
and screaming with all their might; the dogs 
howled most piteously, and crouching amongst 
the crowd, seemed to ask for protection; the 
horses stood trembling with affright, with their 
riders kneeling by their sides; and the birds 
fluttered about in the air as if their wings were 
useless.- After three successive shocks, a death- 
like silence prevailed, and every one appeared 
rivetted to the spot where they stood. All. heads 
Were uncovered, and the different attitudes of 
standing, kneeling, and laying, impressed me with 
feelings which I think will never be erased from 
my memory. This shock happened on the 30th of 
October, 1827, and was registered by many as be- 
ing the smartest ever felt without doing damage, 
or causing the loss of lives. 
Scarcely had the lieutenant been a month 
. in this charming spot when he was recalled, 
and lost no time in returning the way he 
came—that is by a vessel to Valparaiso, 
then crossing the Cordilleras and the Pam- 
pas to Buenos Ayres, and from thence by a 
packet to Rio Janeiro, where he had the 
; felicity of seeing the emperor, and the little 
queen, that is to be, of Portugal. The 
habits and manners of the emperor are per- 
_ haps not much known, and as they differ a 
little from those of European royalties, we 
will quote the author’s account of them— _ 
I visited the opera for the purpose of getting 
sight of the Emperor, who happened to be there, 
accompanied by his two daughters, the Queen of 
Portugal and the Infanta. The former is about 
ten years of age (1827), and the latter an interest- 
ing little child of six or seven. They were very 
plainly dressed, and as they sat in their magni- 
ficent box, were to be seen to great advantage (by 
him, or for them?). Whenever the curtain dropt, 
the audience stood ap out of respect to the Em- 
peror—those in the pit facing him—at which time 
he would always rise and come forward with the 
little queen and child. He wore a plain blue coat, 
without star or mark of distinction of any sort, 
with white trowsers and shoes; and but for the 
gentlemen in waiting never sitting down, or 
coming forward, it was impossible to distinguish 
one from the other. The weather being very 
warm, he used a plain white fan during the whole 
of the opera, which, by the by, is customary 
among the gentlemen of South America. The 
queen is a very pretty little girl, with flaxen hair, 
and remarkably fair. She was dressed quite like 
a little old maid, very plain, wearing a prim close 
Domestic and Foreign. 
413 
cottage bonnet. The pretty infanta was the gay- 
est of them all, being dressed just like an English 
child of the same age, with petticoat-trowsers and 
sash, her bright flaxen hair flowing in lorg ring- 
lets over her shoulders. The Emperor is a hand- 
some young man, about thirty years of age, with 
very dark hair, and large whiskers. He is not 
very particular with respect to etiquette, for he 
was talking promiscuously to the ladies and gen- 
tlemen in the boxes on each side of him, and they 
appeared to be very familiar with him. He is 
frequently to be seen driving about the town in 
his tilbury, or riding on horseback, in plain 
clothes, with only one servant—a vast contrast 
this to his mother, the Dowager Queen of Portu- 
gal, who neyer appeared in public without the 
greatest parade, and whoever passed her car- 
riage, be they who they might, were obliged to 
kneel] down were it ever so dirty! The Emperor 
is a very active man, being up every morning by 
five o’clock. At six he may always be seen pub- 
licly hathing amongst the town’s-people, at the 
small island of Cobres, on which isa small fort 
opposite the palace stairs, from whence he starts 
in his boat, undresses before every body, and 
jumps into the water, swimming amongst hun- 
dreds of others that are constantly there abont 
him—it being the public bathing place of Rio de 
Janeiro. 
The volume is simply a journal, and to 
those who have read Captain Head’s gal- 
lopping tour will present very little novelty. 
The passage of the Andes, in the depth of 
winter, is the main point of interest. The 
scenes are tremendous—the difficulty of 
both ascent and descent enough to appal 
the stoutest; and the lieutenant has aided 
his imperfect accounts by a print or two 
descriptive of the passage. Another print 
is added, of the travelling carriage on the 
Pampas, accompanied by relays, and the 
quachos with their Iassos. Describing the 
descent down a steep of 1,100 or 1,200 feet, 
he says— . 
I stood and gazed witl: wonder, scarcely believ- 
ing it possible they (attendants) would attempt it. 
However, the loads were cast off, and away they 
flew, tumbling and sliding down. like lightning. 
Our beds went into the river, and were soon 
swept out of sight. Then the peons prepared, 
and laying themselves flat on their backs, with 
their arms and legs extended, to my utter amaze- 
ment, they flew down one after the other with the 
swiftness of an arrow, guiding themselves clear of 
the river, although going down with such velo- 
city—one turned, and rolled onee or twice head 
over heels, then round and ronnd like a ball, till 
he reached the bottom, without the slightest in- 
jury. Now, I thought, this weuld never do for 
me, sol waited to see how my companion would 
manage. He approached the brink, and working 
a hole first to rest his heel in, thrust his stick 
half way in the snow, so that it might support 
him to lower himself down a little, and then dug 
another hole. In this manner he went down the 
very steepest part, and then let go, and slid the 
rest in a sitting posture. Now came my turn—! 
commenced with the plan of my companion, but 
finding it so very steep, and not liking the hang- 
ing posture by one arm, I acted more securely, but 
