1831.] French Cookery. 19 



glad to notice recent improvements — kalendars of the stars and of the 

 seasons, but there is not a gastronomic kalendar of the edible produc- 

 tions of our " sea-girt" isle among them all. " They order these matters 

 better in France;" and in that land, according to the words of the 

 song :^ 



" Vaut mieux etre ici bas, 



Gastronomej 



Qu' astronome." 



It will doubtless be concluded, from all that we have been saying, 

 that we deem the subject of cookery a most scientific and difficult one ; 

 it is even so ; and we are more induced to take it up from the failures 

 of others than from any certainty of succeeding ourselves. Two requi- 

 sites we have, however, for the self-imposed task, which are by no 

 means unimportant. In the first place, we love good cheer most 

 heai-tily ; and, secondly, it has been our good fortune often to have 

 enjoyed it in establishments not to be despised, not only in France and 

 in England, but in most European capitals. Nor have we been so sen- 

 sual as to have been insensible to all, save the mere animal enjoyment. 

 On the contrary, we have sought in dining the theory of dinner-giving, 

 and all that pertains to those pleasures of the palate, which may be 

 enjoyed without fatigue, and repeated often, not only to the exhilara- 

 tion of the system, but to the prolongation of existence. In order to 

 the giving of a dinner, it is necessary that the Amphytrion should be 

 cognizant of the fishes, meat, poultry, game, and vegetables, which are 

 in season during each month, and on this head the Code Gourmand is 

 full and instructive. 



January (says the editor) is perhaps one of the most favourable 

 junctures in the year for repasts. In Paris, during this month, beef, 

 veal, mutton, wild-boar, roebuck, hare, grey partridge, woodcock, snipe, 

 red partridge (bartavelle), and black game, are in the greatest abun- 

 dance; and in the vegetable market you find cauliflowers, rich and 

 succulent celery, and the truffle in all its meridian glory. In February, 

 as in January, the beef is fat and tender, the veal pure and white, and 

 the mutton (/e veritable pres sale) full of rich moisture. Though game 

 is not so plenty as in January, yet the scarcity is atoned for in an abun- 

 dance of poultry. March is the month, both in Paris and London, when 

 fish is best, and most abundant ; and when the oyster comes into sea- 

 son. April is only distinguished by its vegetable products, but the 

 young peas and fresh asparagus repair the miseries of thirty days of 

 sterility. May is distinguished, or rather degraded, by that worst of 

 fish, mackerel, and the insipid pigeon ; while June may boast of that 

 best of young birds, a young turkey, French beans, cucumbers, Brus- 

 sels sprouts, &c. Among river fish — always inferior to that of the sea — 

 we may eat, in June, carp, trout, and perch. 



In the French capital, during the month of July, the veal of Pen- 

 toise is most in use ; quail also is common. To give a good dinner in 

 this month requires the most elaborate invention ; and success in this 

 regard would obtain the host a higher reputation than that of a Lou- 

 vois, a Colbert, or a Condorcet. August is the season of young hares, 

 rabbits, and sucking pigs. 



In the month of September game begins again to appear, but the 

 birds have not acquired that degree of succlilence whicli, a little later, 

 makes their perfume preferable to that of the rose. In September 



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