JS31.] Spanish Highways and Byways. 147 



" Q«e quieren usledes ? No hay lugar aqtii para est range ros ?" — " What 

 do you want here ? there is no room for strangers ?" While my servant 

 looked to the horses and baggage, I tried all over the village to procure 

 a room for the night, but without success, and was at last obliged to 

 insist on our share of the room at the posada, in despite of black looks 

 and cuchillo-handles, which they were not backward in shewing, with a 

 view to intimidate us. It appeared to me that they were a band of 

 . smugglers, and by no means liked any check on their conversation, 

 ..which doubtless had for its import some ingenious plan for defrauding 

 the king's coffers of their legitimate rights. 



I was not displeased to find myself breathing the fresh air early the 



next morning, on the road to IMonte IMolin, by a much better and broader 



...pathway than I had been lately accustomed to travel. The tramp of 



t;our horses disturbed some eagles, who were busily engaged feasting on 



^jthe carcase of a horse, which had been destroyed by wolves the niglit 



before. 



Passing Monte JMolin we reached Llerena, which was the first really 

 respectable town I had seen since I had left Seville. Here then I deter- 

 ^, mined to make a halt, and indulge in the luxury of a plentiful meal and 

 .;* bed. For the former, of course, I had to forage ; it not being the 

 custom of the keepers of posadas in this part of the country to supply 

 .,the guests with food. I soon found a butcher's shop, and fortunately 

 I, discovered that respected functionary of the town, the master thereof, in 

 _ the act of cutting up an old goat. As I had tasted no meat since I had 

 ^ left Seville I was by no means fastidious in my choice of food, and was 

 glad to bargain for a fore-quarter with the worthy tradesman, who, I sup- 

 posed, observing my eagerness, and having a due respect for my quality 

 as a stranger, charged me a double price, as a matter of course. My 

 landlady, Avho was a very civil and obliging person, and I dare say ac- 

 customed to the management of the same description of viand, promised 

 to furnish from it a very dainty repast. While this was preparing, I 

 determined on indulging myself with the luxuries of the toilet, a duty 

 rendered attractive by its novelty, although, in fact, it was but a just 

 compliment to my hostess, who besides being courteous and attentive, 

 was pretty withal. My razors, powder, and pomatum were put into 

 requisition ; and as I re-entered the public apartment, I really fancied I 

 did not exhibit an indifferent specimen of the 7node Anglais. Seating 

 myself at table — the savoury smell of the stew almost banished from my 

 mind the complacency with which I had dwelt on my exterior, — my 

 curiosity was roused by seeing the cook suspend her functions, an act of 

 unpardonable temerity at that moment considering the state of my ap- 

 petite, and the muleteers and other guests gazing at me with an 

 unfeigned expression of astonishment. All eyes being riveted on me it 

 was evident that I was the object of this singular attraction ; though in 

 what manner to account for it was beyond the limits of my comprehen- 

 sion. There was nothing that I could see remarkable in my dress ; it 

 was perfectly plain and gentlemanlike ; when, as I began to enumerate 

 in my mind the several articles of which it consisted, my speculations 

 were cut short by an astounding burst of laughter fi-om a thickset wag- 

 gibli-looking ruffian who had been eyeing me, as I thought, with peculiar 

 earnestness. In this exhibition of mirth he was joined, or rather fol- 

 lowed, by the whole corps dc la cuisine, not excepting tlie cook, the land- 

 lady, and a little scrubl)y waiting girl. Totally ignorant of the cause 



s a 



