1831. 1] RccollectioDs of Scenes and Cities. 163 



door — and on either side are seen high mountains^ their loAver accli- 

 vities spotted with patches of corn, and a small church with a tapering 

 spire, crowning a neighbouring height. I passed part of the evening 

 on the balcony over the door, sharing, with two peasants, a bottle or two 

 of pleasant wine ; and although we could see the Austrian soldiers sit- 

 ting smoking at the gate of the Castle of St. Leonhard, whose time- 

 worn walls reposed upon the side of the mountain, we ventured to 

 toast the memory of HofFer — and to drink to " liberty without licen- 

 tiousness." 



From the Tyrol, 'tis but a step to Bavaria — "tis but ascending the 

 Bavarian Alps, and we drop at once into the plain. The charm of the 

 Tyrol lies in its natural beauty ; the attraction of Bavaria is found in 

 its cities. But let me pause at a country village, where there chanced 

 to be a children's feast. About two hundred boys and girls, all the 

 girls attired in white, and headed by a band of music, walked in pi'o- 

 cession to a neighbouring hill — and first, having formed two circles, 

 the girls inside and the boj^s without, a grave but good humoured 

 elderly gentleman made a speech to the little people, — he praised their 

 proficiency at school, and told them that they had assembled to enjoy 

 themselves ; that they might eat as much bun as they pleased, and 

 play till sunset ; and he concluded by exhorting the little boys to 

 behave with gentleness and politeness to their female companions. The 

 next moment all were at play — boys and girls mingling promiscuously. 

 One beautiful little girl, about twelve years of age, appeared to be 

 queen of the games ; she wore a chaplet of flowers and seemed to be 

 invested with the authority which was yielded alike to her superior 

 age and charming countenance. It was a beautiful and a pleasing scene^ 

 New fangled notions of education and propriety, had evidently made 

 no progress in Bavaria ; there was no torturing of nature ; children 

 were children, not ridiculous caricatures of men and women ; and the 

 buoyancy of youth was not curbed by the silly and prosaic maxims of 

 modern philosophers. As for the sensible and kind hearted old gentle- 

 man, who lent his countenance to the children's feast, I could not resist 

 the temptation of introducing myself to him ; I found he was a magis- 

 trate of the town ; and we spent a pleasant hour over a bottle of Rhine 

 wine, and in talking of the supposed improvements of modern times. 

 They know little in Bavaria of the march of mind. The old gentleman 

 had never heard of the Mechanics' Institutes, or Libraries for the People ; 

 " 'Tis a great discovery," said he, " but tell me one thing — are crime 

 and vice diminished in j^our country, and are the people happier?" 

 but as my Voilurier was impatient, the reins already in his hand, and 

 the pipe in his mouth — I had an excuse to rise suddenly, and take 

 leave of my kind entertainer. 



I remember, with great pleasure, the ten days I spent in Munich. 

 There is no city of Europe, three times the size of Munich, that con- 

 tains so much that is worthy of observation ; and if it were for nothing 

 else than to see the dress of the women, I would advise the traveller to 

 include INIunich in his way. Take the following portrait of the washer- 

 woman, wlio came to receive my commands at the " Black Eagle." 

 A silver head dress, confining all the back hair, and forming a tiara in 

 front ; a blue satin brocaded waist, and shirt of flowered muslin ; a 

 worked muslin apron ; blue gloves ; in one hand, a blue satin bag de- 

 pending from a silver chain, and a handsome parasol in the other. I 



T 2 



