r" [ 270 ] [Sept. 



SPANISH HIGHWAYS AXD BYWAYS. N". IV.* 



After my late bivouac on the plains, I pursued my way, none the 

 worse, to Villa Franca, and thence to IMerida. Large flocks of merino 

 diversify the face of the country through which I passed ; it is likewise 

 rich in corn and oil. The good people in this part of Spain seem to 

 entertain a particular veneration for the stork, -which i-ears its young 

 throughout this district in inidisturbed securitJ^ With good reason, 

 however, are these creatures unmolested ; for they save their protectors 

 the irksome duties of cleanliness, by becoming, after a fashion, their 

 scavengers. They are recommended, moreover, by their strong ]\Ial- 

 thusian principles, which correct the evil tendency of a superabundant 

 population in the marshes, adjoining Villa Franca and IMerida. IMerida 

 contains innumerable relics of ancient Roman magnificence. It was 

 once a favourite spot of such of the ancient conquerors, who exchanged 

 the fertile fields of Italy for a more extensive share of those of Spain. 

 Nor can it be wondered at, Avhen we consider the temptations which 

 the climate and soil of this luxui'iant district afforded. Like all other 

 places which the Romans honoured by their preference, it rapidly grew 

 in greatness, and IMerida became the envy of the neighbouring bar- 

 bai-ous districts, by its splendid palaces, its stately temples, its aqueducts, 

 baths, and amphitheatres. The remains of many of these stupendous 

 and admirable works of art are yet in existence, surviving the revolu- 

 tions of time and of kingdoms, and still exhibit, in their slow decay, that 

 majestic grandeur, which gained for their projectors the Avonder and 

 admiration of succeeding ages. The very pavement which we trod 

 upon, the inscriptions on the walls, the broken columns, capitals, bas- 

 reliefs, and statues, all speak a tale of other times — nay, the very churches 

 now devoted to christian worship, borrowing their splendour from the 

 wrecks of paganism, convey forcibly to the mind an image of those days 

 when the stately edifice, now responding to the voice of the true 

 religion, once echoed with the rites of another — a barbarous, though 

 imposing creed. IMerida, though a considerable towni, sinks into insig- 

 nificance when viewed in comparison with its former splendour. One 

 of tlie ancient aqueducts yet supphes the town Avith water, while the 

 stupendous remains of the other only afford to the stork a secure 

 asylum to rear its young. Within a short chstance are the remains of a 

 temple once dedicated to Diana, but now the residence of an anchorite. 

 The bridge crossing the Guadiana is of great extent, and is likewise of 

 Roman orisin. Not far from the town are seen the remains of two 

 ancient theatres, one adapted for scenic representation, and the other for 

 the celebration of games, gladiatorial combats, and spectacles in which 

 the ancient Romans took such delight. The remains of the amphi- 

 theatre lie scattered about in huge disjointed masses, so strongly joined 

 with cement, as to form a sohd and almost impenetrable body. Build- 

 ings so constructed might have bid defiance to time, had not man with 

 a more unsparing hand hastened their destruction. This fine edifice 

 has been undermined and pulled to pieces for the sake of the granite 

 which formed the foundations, and faced the walls ; thus proving, that 

 the barbarians of a civUized era could not be taught to respect what the 

 Goths of former ages spared. The epigram written on the family of the 



" Extracted from the Note-Book of Sir Paul Baghott. 



