1831.] Spttfiish Higliways ajid Byways. 271 



Barbei'ini at Rome — who took such a conspicuous part in the plunder of 

 the materials of the ancient Coliseum, their palace being almost entirely 

 built of the spoil — might apply with equal justice to the modern barba- 

 rians of Merida — 



" Quod non faciebant Barbari fecerunt Barberini !" 



The other theatre is not so much fallen, owing, perhaps, to its still more 

 solid construction — the walls being nearly forty feet in thickness at the 

 base, and gradually diminishing towards the top. There are seven 

 rows of stone seats, still perfect, which in former times marked the 

 different ranks of the audience. It is now converted into a plaza for 

 bull -fighting. The public entrances are but little damaged, though 

 partly buried in earth from the accumulation of the rubbish of ages. 

 The town is adorned with many modern churches and convents, and 

 forms an agreeable and desirable residence, from the mildness of its 

 climate and the abundance of every necessary of life with which it is 

 supplied. 



Badajos^ which occupies so conspicuous a place in British military 

 annals, is one of the frontier towns of Portugal, and within a day's ride 

 of JNIerida. It was with regret that I left this town, where there is so 

 much to tempt the traveller to stay ; but my time was short ; bidding 

 adieu, therefore, to IMerida, and all its vestiges of fallen greatness, I 

 hastened onwards to the capital. 



It was betimes in the morning that I was fairly on my route, when, 

 passing through the village of San Pedro, but a short distance from 

 JMerida, and without any intention of halting, my attention was excited 

 by seeing a handkerchief waved towards me, by a female hand, from the 

 balcony of a very respectable-looking house. On looking up I heard a 

 voice, in very soft and gentle accents, inquire whether I was an English- 

 man, and on my replying in the affirmative, I was invited in. This 

 invitation, couched as it was in pleasant terms, and conveyed in so 

 gentle a tone, I was not backward in accepting ; and on ascending the 

 stairs and entering the room, which I judged to be that adjoining the 

 balcony, I discovered a young lady of a very prepossessing appearance, 

 and a priest, who I conjectured, from a certain resemblance between 

 them, to be a relation. I was not deceived ; for the old man, apologiz- 

 ing for the liberty his niece had taken, informed me that she took a 

 great interest in English people, and, on seeing me pass, recognizing me 

 to be of tliat nation, could not forbear accosting me. The lady — who 

 had before this time drawn a chair for me, and placed herself by my 

 side, was not able to bear the lengtliy apology and narrative of her 

 reverent and garrulous relative, which, though given by me in a few 

 ■words, it must be confessed, was somewhat prolix in the original — now 

 overwhelmed me with a dozen questions in a breath about England, and 

 more particularly London. She informed me that she had been induced 

 to accompany an English officer to London, where he married her. His 

 regiment was then unfortunately ordered off to India, when slie was in 

 so delicate a state of health that she was not able to proceed with him. 

 He left her with instructions to follow him, when, on his arrival in 

 India, he might be able to send her favourable accounts. After an 

 anxious year the promised communication arrived, but not from her 

 husband ; it was the announcement of his death ! She subsequently 

 procured the arrears of pay, and a widow's pension. Ilcr child (for she 



