1831.] Spanish Highways and By ways. 275 



ment by the same desperate means, amidst a shower of shot from the 

 enemy. Many hundreds of our brave fellows, imder that treacherous 

 footing, found a grave ; and it was not without emotion that I beheld 

 the yellow cornfield, and the teeming vineyard, waving their treasures 

 peacefully over their place of rest — fertilized by the blood of the brave! 

 The city was outspread before us, as on a huge map, in the midst of an 

 extensive plain, and nearly encircled by the Tagus. On our approach I 

 found it was encompassed by an old Roman w^all, to which were attached 

 the ruins of several towers. The bridge by which we entered the town 

 bore evidence of Roman construction ; but it is in a sadly dilapidated 

 state. The town is ancient, and has nothing remarkable in it. It con- 

 tains some good houses, has a plaza for bull-fighting, and two public 

 walks. There is a royal establishment for the manufacture of silk, 

 which is now inactive ; but a considerable trade is cari-ied on by the 

 inhabitants in silk, hats, and common ware. 



During my short staj^, I was present at a religious festival, and was 

 much edified by witnessing a few acts of practical devotion, the prin- 

 cipal of which consisted in burning an effigy of Judas, which was con- 

 signed to the flames amidst a burst of pious indignation. Various 

 offerings was then made to the Virgin, in corn, wine, oil, fruit, and 

 flowers. Asses and lambs were likewise driven into the churches, and 

 placed before the altar ; which the priests rendering an excellent account 

 of, and the people being extremely well satisfied with, all parties retired 

 from the festival in the most joyous and contented mood imaginable. 

 The climate is very mild, and provisions are in great abundance. I 

 obtained excellent red wine at one penny a bottle. The posadas are 

 indiflferent ; I was obliged to purchase in the town every thing I had 

 occasion for, and paid the host only for the shelter of his roof. Being 

 rather fatigued with walking during the last two days, I took the ad- 

 vantage of a gallero going from Lisbon to Madrid, and engaged a place. 

 This is a conveyance intended for merchandize and passengers, resem- 

 bling a light waggon, and travelling at the rate of about four miles an 

 hour. The passengers were not of a description to suit an exclusive, 

 but they were civil and good humoured, and endeavoured to make 

 themselves agreeable to each other, by singing and playing the guitar, 

 occasionally introducing a merry story. It was not from want of enter- 

 tainment, that at the end of the first day I left the gallero ; but I found 

 the motion rather more fatiguing than the ambling of my little horse, 

 which I again mounted, having, during my short journey, tied him to 

 the gallero, and left my baggage to the care of the conductor. At 

 night I reached IMostoles, where I had the luxury of a bed on the 

 floor, and the next day arrived at Madrid. 



Political dissensions were for a time forgotten at the moment I entered 

 the capital, in consequence of the celebration of the splendid festival of 

 Corpus Cliristi. The principal streets were covered with an awning of 

 blue and white striped canvass, placed at a considerable elevation, that 

 the view from the balconies and the principal windows might not be 

 interrupted. The ground was strewn with sand, and the streets lined 

 with troops. Eleven thousand men were on duty. All the valuables of 

 the inliabitants, of such a nature as tapestry, carpets, and stuffs of costly 

 description, were exhibited on this occasion, and hanging from the win- 

 dows in such profusion as almost to cover the walls of the houses, pro- 



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