1831.] Refiecliotis on a Ramble in Germany. 370 



The stern mouldering battlements and gothic spires constantly remind 

 him of times which, for pictorial effect, appeal as powerfully to the 

 imagination as the heroic ages of Greece. There is, in her towns and 

 cities, a brightness blended with aristocratic tranquillity ; in the charac- 

 ter of her men, a martial ardour, a deep solidity of thought ; in the 

 character of her w^omen, a winning softness, a romantic sensibility and 

 enthusiasm, which excites our admiration and awakens our love. Such 

 is Germany ! — such is the land where, under the glittering veil thrown 

 over it by the hand of modern civilization, there still linger many of 

 those beautiful traits of character and manners which, near twenty cen- 

 turies ago, so powerfully captivated the imagination of tlie historian 

 Tacitus. 



I entered Cologne on a fine Sunday evening, in the summer of 1828. 

 There is an air of gloomy antiquity about this old city, with Its long, 

 narrow streets — heavy, quaint style of architecture — and fine old min- 

 6ter, which powerfully appeals to our historical recollections. The 

 window of my chamber, at the Hotel du Rhin, looked on the river — the 

 broad, bright, legendary Rhine. I crossed the Bridge of Boats, and 

 wandered towards the Caserne. The public gardens were fuU of happy 

 groups — some quietly enjoying the aromatic pleasures of the meerchauni 

 — others moving in the mazy circles of the graceful waltz. The music 

 was beautiful, and the martial figures and uniforms of the soldiers, 

 intermingled with the quaint costumes of the women, produced a pic- 

 turesque effect. On my return to the hotel, I met a detachment of 

 infantry. The men sung as they marched. In full, deep chorus, a 

 popular national air. In the soft stillness of the evening, the effect was 

 beautiful. The Hymn of Mars, chaunted by the Greeks on moving to 

 the attack, must have raised, in an extraordinary degree, the spirits of 

 the men, and have nerved their souls to deeds of daring. 



An old gentleman, with whom I conversed at supper, told me that 

 the French regime was universally regretted throughout the Rhenish 

 provinces. Napoleon's continental system encouraged manufactures ; 

 the constant passage of his armies circulated money ; the w\ir opened a 

 free career to talent ; but the peace has changed all this. English com- 

 petition has ruined their trade. The national vanity of the people is 

 hourly wounded by the arrogance and conceit of the Prussians ; while 

 the value of property has suffered an immense deterioration by the Intro- 

 duction of a depreciated currency — the sJieide mimze — a species of 

 copper money, silvered over. Sti-ange, that even in the land where the 

 French sojourned as conquerors, they should have left behind them a 

 feeling of regret ! But so it is in every country almost, wherein the 

 eagles of Napoleon hovered, though but In desolating triumph. 



In Germany all classes travel, from the sovereign prince down to the 

 meanest mechanic. This locomotive existence narrows. In a wonderful 

 degree, the circle of national prejudice. For enlightened and impartial 

 opinions on the manners and superstition of foreign countries, commend 

 me to the German. The approach of the curzeit — as they emphatically 

 style the bathing-season — produces much the same effect as the 12th of 

 August with us : every body flocks to the country. At this period, all 

 that is distinguished for rank and fashion in the land may be found 

 assembled at some of their numerous watering-places ; when the travel- 

 ler, at a glance, may contemplate all the liglits and shadows of German 

 life: — the sovereign prince, and his Morganic consort; the mediatized 



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