382 Tiejieclioiis on a Ramble in Germanij. QOct. 



minated, and, after meandering through its various alleys^ returned to 

 the saloon. 



The mazurka was danced by some Polish ladies and some Russian 

 gentlemen of the grand-duchess's suite. There is a martial character in 

 this dance that pleases from its novelty. But the great attraction of the 

 evening was the waltz, danced as it is no where danced but in Germany. 

 There is, in the soft, swimming movement of the waltz, something that 

 beautifully harmonizes -with the tender expression of countenance, and 

 feminine softness of form, of the German women. National dances, 

 when transplanted to foreign climes, like exotics, degenerate. The 

 bolero and fandango must be seen in the sunny land of their birth. I 

 was much pleased with this assembly ; it was marked by a fascinating 

 polish of exterior, and high-bred courtliness of manner, far superior to 

 anything we see in similar reunions at the watering-places of our own 

 island. 



I left Ems on the eve of the anniversary of the King of Prussia's 

 birth-day, to witness a grand military spectacle in its honour, at the 

 fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. The morning was beautiful, and as I wound 

 round the steep ascent which led to the fortress, the magnificent valley 

 of the Rhine burst upon us in all its beauty. The troops were formed 

 in a hollow square in the quadrangle ; the battlements above were 

 crowded with all the beauty and fashion of Coblentz and its neighbour- 

 hood. It was a martial scene, and many a fair bosom heaved, and bright 

 eye danced with delight, in contemplating the assembled chivalry of 

 Prussia. Divine service, according to the rites of the Lutheran church, 

 was celebrated, followed by a sermon, preached by a pale, ascetic-looking 

 clergyman, whose solemn figure, sable habiliments, and black Geneva 

 cap, recalled to the memory the martj^rs of the olden time. On the 

 conclusion of the sermon, the troops sang, in full, deep chorus, a solemn 

 hymn. The effect was beautiful, and went immediately to the heart. 

 Ere the last notes had died away — amid the deafening roar of the open- 

 ing cannons, and the martial flourish of drums and trumpets — the black- 

 eagled flag of Prussia rose majestically on its pole, giving its ample folds 

 to the morning-breeze in lordly pride. The troops now broke into 

 column, and marched back to their quarters. First passed the cavalry : 

 the appearance of both men and horses was magnificent — the men look- 

 ing fierce, and ready for the melee. Next came the infantry, with music 

 in the measured tread of their platoons. The heavy roll of the guns, 

 and the glitter of the arms of the troops as they wound round the 

 descent, Avas extremely fine. Ere the rearmost platoon had quitted the 

 quadrangle, we proceeded from the height on which we stood, the 

 lancers crossing the Bridge of Boats on the Rhine, their pennons float- 

 ing in the breeze — the wild notes of their trumpets sounding sweetly 

 over the surface of the water. The scene I had witnessed was magni- 

 ficent, and will long linger on the memory. I tarried for some time on 

 the spot, to contemplate the magnificent prospect beneath me :— 



" A blending of all beauties : streams and dells. 

 Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine. 

 And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells. 

 From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells." 



My guide pointed across the Rhine to the tomb of General Marceau. 

 He had seen him fall. The incidents of this poor guide's career were 



