1831.] Spanish Highways and Byways. 505 



manor, though I could not help thinking, if there be any truth in phy- 

 siognomy, that his attendants had mistaken their calling, when they 

 adopted that of gamekeepers. Pursuing our route, we passed a number 

 of bird-catchers, who supply Madrid with larks, and other small birds. 

 They make use of a curious trap, formed of the rib-bone of an ass or 

 mule, which falls on the bird as it touches a s])ring to take the bait, and 

 kills it. These traps are placed at various distances by the fowler, who 

 walks backwards and forwards to pick up the dead birds. In the even- 

 ing he fills the panniers of his ass with his traps and game, and returns 

 to Madi'id to make his market. 



I passed my Christmas Avith Senor Don Gamboa, at his country seat. 

 The snow was nearly a foot deep on the ground, so that our shooting 

 was but indifferent; but the hospitable treatment experienced within, 

 more than reconciled me to the loss of sport. I met with a dish at my 

 friend's table, rather novel to an Englishman. It consisted of lambs not 

 more than a day old, fricasseed and served up whole. The cause of this 

 apparently extravagant dish is, that the milk of the mother is more va- 

 luable than the lamb, no other milk than that of ewes and goats being 

 used at iiladrid. 



I witnessed an extraordinary exhibition at the Plaza de los Toros at 

 this season, with which the Spaniards occasionally divert themselves, 

 when the regular bull fights have ceased. The bulls seldom fight well 

 in winter ; therefore this game is patronized, for want of better sport. 

 After the usual ceremony, of the individuals engaged in the spectacle 

 presenting themselves to the public authorities, the exhibition com- 

 menced, by four men, mounted back to back on two horses, entering the 

 arena, each being armed with a lance. At the sound of a trumpet a 

 bull was let loose, which, rushing at the nearest horse, overthrew him 

 with his riders, and then made after the other, which shared the same 

 fate, to the infinite gratification of the spectators. The animal was then 

 secured in his den. The next combat was of a most extraordinary 

 nature. There was a man in Madrid born without arms, but having 

 hands, as it were, proceeding directly from his body, of which he could 

 make a very dexterous use. He was placed v/ithin a large wicker basket, 

 with an aperture in it sufficiently large to admit the man to creep in. He 

 held a lance in each hand, and to the basket was affixed a monkey, to 

 engage the attention of the bull, and to vary the sport. The basket was 

 placed upright in the centre of the arena, the man standing Avithin, his 

 head and shoulders only being visible. The moment the trumpet 

 sounded the door opened, and out rushed the bull. He immediately 

 commenced a desperate attack on his strange enemy, who, for a time, 

 resisted him successfully ; but at length being overpowered, he with- 

 drew into his wicker defence, and was rolled about the arena by his 

 ferocious antagonist, who vainly endeavoured to pierce his strong hold. 

 During this time the monkey was not idle, but clung to the bull's horns, 

 squalling in a hideous manner, adding thereby to the rage of the animal, 

 and wonderfully increasing the delight of the spectators. This act being 

 finished, and the bull secured, another aspirant to fame appeared, in the 

 likeness of a bear, who placed himself under the branches of a tree set 

 firmly in the ground, opposite tlie entrance gate of the animal. A lance 

 was affixed to tlie tree, as a protection to the bear. The moment the 

 bull received his liberty, he rushed blindly at Bruin, and not perceiving 

 the lance, he buried the weapon in hia body. The courage of the noble 



