1831.] Spanish Highways and Byways. 507 



retire before this numerous horde of brigands, and the city became com- 

 pletely panic-stricken. Such was the confusion which these events 

 created, that no real intelligence could be gathered ; every trifling cir- 

 cumstance became so magnified, that I went to the gate of Alcala, ex- 

 pecting to witness a novel sight, in the triumphal entry of freebooters 

 into the capital of Spain. It was lamentable to see the wounded arrive, 

 some huddled together in carts, and others on mides and horses. Fugi- 

 tives, likewise, poured in from the same direction, without shoes and 

 stockings, or arms and accoutrements of any description, these gallant 

 fellows having wisely disencumbered themselves of all such useless com- 

 modities, the better to assist their speed. Not the slightest information 

 could be obtained from these Bobadils, their fears having acted as rudely 

 by their wits as Bessirus had with their valiant persons. Such was the 

 state of general alarm, that the shops were closed ; and at Lady 

 A'Court's (Lady Heytesbury) tertulia, only two Spanish ladies were 

 present. General Abisbal, however, relieved their anxiety, by marching 

 against the rebels, and speedily dispersing them. The fears of the inha- 

 bitants were but for a short time tranquillized, for fresh disturbances 

 were continually breaking out, supported by the French, with an army 

 of sixty thousand men, on the frontiers. It was now that the constitu- 

 tional government tottered. Angry diplomatic notes passed between the 

 ambassadors resident in Madrid and the executive, which ended, as is 

 well known, by these functionaries demanding their passports. The 

 English ambassador remained. These precious specimens of diplomatic 

 correspondence were read aloud, at a meeting of the Cortes, by Senor 

 Galiano, and it was amusing to hear the different degrees of assumption 

 •with which the ambassador couched the sentiments of their respective 

 masters, all, however, tending to one end — the extinction of liberty 

 throughout Europe. The crafty policy of Sletternich could be traced 

 in the communication of Austria ; the considerate care of the Bourbons 

 was manifested in their desire for peace, further proved by their army 

 marching to establish it ; but the note of Russia surpassed them all in 

 its arrogant presumption. It was read, as it deserved to be, amidst the 

 groans and execrations of the assemblage. The answer of Spain to this 

 insulting and unjustifiable interference of strangers, was worthy of the 

 ancient days of her chivalry. But alas ! her pi-oud spirit was all that 

 remained to her ; long ages of misrule had sapped the foundations of 

 her power, and she now lay, like a gallant ship, at the mercy of the 

 breakers. The Cortes did their utmost to prepare against the invasion, 

 and, as a measure of just precaution, the royal family removed to 

 Seville. The royal treasury was, at that time, at so low an ebb, that 

 the necessary funds for his JMajesty's journey were supplied from 

 private sources. 



At this critical period, my affairs obliged me to return to England ; 

 and as the direct road from the capital was completely under the juris- , 

 diction of brigands and the military, I thought it would be more agree- 

 able, as well as safer, to quit Spain by way of Valencia. I arrived at 

 that city four days after my departure from Madrid, allowing myself 

 but a short time for rest at night, and without daring to take off my 

 clothes. The country presented but little interest, until we reached the 

 province of Valencia, the greater part being an extensive plain, without 

 nhrub or tree, excepting at the entrance of villages, where some few 

 elms had been planted by tlie inliabitants. The soil st'cmcd generally 



