508 Spanish Highwai/s and Byways. [Nov. 



light and unproductive. The towns on the road are not more worthy of 

 notice than the country through which we passed, until we arrived at 

 the " Venta del Rey," which is an excellent and commodious house, 

 built expressly for the accommodation of travellers. We passed the 

 river Jucar in boats, and entered an extensive valley, abounding in corn 

 and fruit, vineyards and gardens. The river meanders gracefully along, 

 and supplies numerous canals for irrigating the soil. The climate now 

 became sensibly milder. The pomegranate, orange, and citron-trees 

 were every where in abundance, and the most careful cultivation, assist- 

 ing the natural fertility of the soil, made the whole country like a vast 

 garden. 



The city of Valencia lies low, and being surrounded by lofty trees, we 

 entered the city without being aware of it. I found the town in a state 

 of great excitement. The military were imder arms, and crowds of 

 people were assembled within the gates. The moment I alighted from 

 the coach, a gentleman inquired from me whether I was an Englishman, 

 and on learning that such was the case, advised me to make the best 

 of my way out of Valencia, as they were in hourly expectation of a 

 visit from the rebels, who having that morning defeated a body of con- 

 stitutional troops, had been joined by a numerous body of the infatuated 

 peasantry, and were enabled to make successful head against the autho- 

 rities. This was rather unpleasant news for me, and I lost no time in 

 presenting my letters of introduction to the police ; but I found that 

 business was entirely suspended, and the office deserted. Affairs were 

 not, however, in so desperate a condition as I at first feared, and I had 

 leisure to inspect the town. The next day being the anniversary of 

 Spanish freedom, " Te Dcum" was chaunted at the cathedral, and the 

 treasures of the church were displayed to the reverential gaze of the be- 

 lievers. There was a statue of St. Michael set with diamonds ; a superb 

 chalice of rare agate, of most beautiful workmanship; a tabernacle, eight 

 feet in height, of silver gilt, and enriched with diamonds ; and the altar 

 was of silver, representing the passion of our Saviour ; but I was given 

 to understand that the treasure which they valued most, was a miracu- 

 lous toe-nail of the virgin, which had gained for the church a reputation 

 of extraordinaiy sanctity. A canon of the cathedral, observing that I 

 was a stranger, very kindly conducted me over it. There are some 

 fine old paintings, by Leonardo de Vinci, and other masters of repute, 

 and the church is altogether rich in decoration and valuables, from the 

 donations of the faithful. The building has witnessed strange changes ; 

 it has been twice converted into a mosque, by the IMoors, and as often 

 re-consecrated for the Christian worship. On the summit of the tower 

 I beheld a magnificent prospect, including the Mediterranean, the beau- 

 tiful lake of Albufera, a highly cultivated plain studded with towns and 

 villages, and a chain of mountains, almost encircling the whole. From 

 this elevation I had an excellent view of the extent and situation of the 

 city. It is enclosed by high walls, watered by the river Guadalaviar, 

 and situated in the centre of a fertile and luxuriant plain. I observed 

 "workmen eveiy where busily repairing the ramparts, and banking them 

 up with bags of sand. The citadel was likewise being placed in a state 

 of defence. Several promenades add to the beauty of the city. They 

 are planted with orange, lemon, and pomegranate trees, and ornamented 

 with rare exotics from South America, which seem to tlu-ive as well as 

 in their native climate. The temperature is extremely mild ; the trees 



