1831 .3 Spanish Highways and Byways. 509 



retain their leaves till the end of November, and the winter is considered 

 over by the 15th of January. The sky is continually serene. 



The province of Valencia has not its equal in Spain for temperature, 

 beauty, and fertility ; it is here we see forests of palm-trees without 

 crossing the desert, and plantations of the sugar- cane without slavery. 

 The aloe, carole, and the palm, are indigenous to the soil. The latter is 

 not to be found in any other part of Europe ; its branches are sent to 

 Italy previous to Palm-Sunday, and forms a productive portion of the 

 revenue. The fruit of the palm is often seen in the markets at Madrid, 

 and other places. The necessaries of life are in the greatest abundance, 

 and remarkably cheap in this city. — I only paid four and twopence a 

 day for excellent board and lodging at my hotel, including dessert and 

 wine. The ladies of Valencia are generally handsome, and are attired 

 much in the French style : the peasantry retaining more of the Moorish 

 costume than in any other part of Spain. General Houlman, who com- 

 manded the rebels, did not follow up his success, therefore the people 

 of Valencia had time to make better preparation for defence : in the 

 behef that he would not attempt an advance, confidence was restored, 

 and the gates of the city were thrown open. I now got my passport 

 regulated for Barcelona, and agreed with the captain of a felucca, to 

 take me there for eight dollars. 



The first object that strikes the eye, on arriving at Barcelona, is Mon- 

 serrat, celebrated for its IMadonna. It is usually called " los dedos, the 

 fingers," from its summit presenting the appearance of the four fingers 

 and thumb. It serves as a land-mark ; and is well known to navigators in 

 the INIediterranean sea. The inhabitants of Barcelona were making every 

 preparation against the coming contest — even the women seemed animated 

 with the patriotic feeling, and declared their resolution to assist in the 

 defence. Business of every kind was suspended ; deeds of arms were 

 the universal theme ; so having no ambition to gain a name that way, 

 I thought a speedy retreat was the most advisable. Commerce with 

 France of course ceased ; therefore I was obliged to proceed in a covered 

 waggon, called a Tartuna, to Gerona. We passed Pineda, Mataro, and 

 many smaller towns, where we found the bustle of preparation for hos- 

 tilities everywhere conspicuous, troops were bivouacing by their large 

 fires in the streets ; artillery and ammunition moving towards the dif- 

 ferent points of defence — the thoughts of war entirely superseding the 

 operation of peace. The lofty snow-capped summit of the Pyrenees soon 

 became visible, and Gerona, beautifully situated on the slnpe of a moun- 

 tain, with its high walls and numerous towers, and its magnificent cathe- 

 dral rising from the centre, opened to our view. On my ai-rival I found 

 letters of introduction of no use , men's minds being entirely absorbed 

 in the critical situation of their country. The regiment of Arragon was 

 then marching into the city — a fine body of men ; they escorted a train 

 of artillery. Gerona is an interesting city, and is celebrated for its gal- 

 lant defence during the last war. The garrison were reduced to starva- 

 tion ; animals of every description were killed for food ; and at the close 

 of the siege liardly a living thing besides its defenders was found within 

 the city : twenty-seven thousand men perished in the contest. Although 

 anxious to pursue my journey, I could not forbear visiting the cathedral. 

 It is a magnificent .structure, and has the most superb painted window 

 I ever beiield. The treasury is exceedingly rich in gold, silver, and 

 jewels. The person who conducted me over the edifice appeared to 



