f)2G Ixcjleclions on a Humble in Germany. [^Dec. 



The cassino of Frankfort is a noble establishment, containing every 

 thing that can administer to studious retirement, or elegant recreation. 

 During the winter, balls and concerts are given twice a-week, which are 

 attended by the elite of the society of the city and its environs. 



For more than six weeks I had seen nothing in the shape of a news- 

 paper, but the " Austrian Observer" and the " AUegmeine Zeitung" — 

 certainly, with the exception of the " Gaceta de Madrid," or the " Diario 

 de Lisboa," the two most dull and uninteresting pubhc prints in Europe. 

 On the table of the reading-room my eye lighted with delight on the 

 " Times" and " Courier," and several numbers of our best periodical 

 works — (I must avail myself of a parenthesis to say that the " AIonthly" 

 Avas among them). — To an Englishman in a foreign land, what a fund of 

 pleasurable emotion do a file of English newspapers present. To tliis 

 day I recollect, when in the wilds of South America, with what delight 

 I pored over even the advertisements. What a train of pleasing associa- 

 tions were excited by the occurrence of the name of an intimate friend 

 and associate in a military gazette — a friend from whom I was separated 

 by nearly half the globe's diameter ! 



Hesse-Darmstadt is celebrated for its opera : I could not, therefore, 

 resist the temptation of riding over to be present at Rossini's " Moise in 

 Egitto." Two leagues from the city you enter a fine forest of fir-trees, 

 a noble avenue of which leads to the gutes of this beautiful little capital. 

 We have nothing in England that can be compared to one of these little 

 German capitals. The aristocratic tranquillity, the regal splendour, the 

 military pomp, the fascinating polish of exterior that pervades every 

 thing, render a comparison Avith any thing in our island impossible. 



The opera-house is a splendid structure, and neither care nor expense 

 has been spared to render it one of the most efficient in Germany. The 

 late grand-duke was an enthusiast in music, and united to an exquisite 

 taste a profound knowledge of the art. At the repetitions he used to 

 lead the orchestra in person. It is related of him that, when his subjects 

 clamoured for free institutions, he readily yielded to their demands, 

 stipulating only that his despotic sway over the department of the opera 

 should be left untouched. The reign of despotism such as this can never 

 be regretted, at least by the lover of music. 



On the evening in question, the house was crowded to excess, graced 

 by the glittering splendour of the court, and presented a brilliant 

 coup-d'ceU. The grand-duke sat in the front of his box, and appeared to 

 follow the performance with critical attention. The decorations were 

 magnificent, and the costumes splendid and classically correct through- 

 out. 



I shall not easily forget the masterly manner in which the introduction 

 to this beautiful opera was executed by the orchestra, or the profound 

 attention of the audience. The efficiency of the choruses was wonder- 

 ful. Between the acts the company lounged about in a beautiful garden, 

 laid out in the English taste, adjoining the theatre — the ladies sipping 

 their ices ; while the gentlemen, many of them, wei'e cultivating the 

 aromatic perfume of the meerchaum. 



On my return to Frankfort I found that the Grand-Duke Constantine 

 had arrived, and liad taken up his quarters at the same hotel with 

 myself. I felt most curious to behold this extraordinary man, whose 

 career on the political theatre of events has been so singular. I encoun- 



