inSl.] Sj)(nnsh Hight^at/s and Byways. 653 



conveyance to IMadrid, although she sent me word that in a week she 

 should be quite well enougli to proceed. This was the anniversary of 

 that memorable day when the French were driven out of Vittoria, with 

 the loss of all their guns and stores ; yet, such are the up-and-down 

 habits of human affairs, they are now marching in triumph over the same 

 ground. The customary rejoicings were of course suspended, as men 

 seldom like to beard their masters ; though I was informed that the 

 conduct of the French troops was exemplary, and they were rapidly 

 gaining the esteem of the inhabitants. If the account were true, a few 

 years must have altered them strangely. 



I left Vittoria for Burgos, in a covered cart called a galero — one 

 of the most wretched vehicles I have ever travelled in. It was nearly 

 filled with merchandize, with merely a hole left in front for passengers 

 to creep in and out ; and in this charming little place were we jolted 

 together, till, at the end of our journey, we had scarcely a soimd place on 

 our bodies. I was delighted to regain my old quarters at Burgos, the 

 " Palomas," after this specimen of g«/ero-travelling. The city was in 

 a state of confusion ; and a friend on whom I called expressed much 

 surprise to see me, as he said most of my friends were either in prison 

 or had fled ; that the jails were filled with most of the respectable inha- 

 bitants, on account of their political opinions ; and advised me to depart 

 without delay. For this purpose I went to the Town-hall, to have my 

 passport regulated for ]\Iadrid, and found the place of the alcalde and the 

 municipal officers occupied by priests. Contrary to my expectation, I 

 was received Avith great civility, and had no difficulty in arranging my 

 business. I was now at liberty to leave, and the next day found a mule- 

 teer returning to IMadrid, with whom I made an agreeinent for the jour- 

 ney. I found this mode of travelling by far the most pleasant ; for I was 

 well acquainted with the road, and, of course, with the best posadas. 

 The mule on which I was mounted falling lame, I accomplished the 

 remainder of my journey on an ass, and was never carried more plea- 

 santly in my life. Those who have no other idea of this description 

 of animal than that which is afforded them b}^ the miserable specimens 

 they see in the streets of London, would be astonished at the appearance 

 of a Spanish borico. They have none of the sluggishness peculiar to 

 those of our ovv-n country, and, for travelling, are greatly superior to 

 horses, both as regards the easiness of their pace, and their capability of 

 enduring fatigue. The animal which I rode carried me upwards of 

 forty miles in one day, without appearing at all disti'essed. Indeed they 

 are held in such estimation in Spain, that I have known many of them 

 sell for twenty pounds each. I passed a string of beautiful white asses 

 laden with corn for I\Iadrid. They were each from twelve to thirteen 

 hands high, and were covered with bells and silken trappings. Pink 

 ribbons decorated their ears, which were bored for the purpose ; and 

 their coats having been lately shorn, gave them a beautifully white 

 glossy appearance. It is customary in Spain to shear horses, mules, and 

 asses — a set of men gaining their livelihood by this business only. This 

 operation renders that of grooming less laborious, and gives the animals 

 even in winter a sleek appearance. We frequently overtook gens-d'armes 

 escorting milit^iry stores and droves of bullocks, which rendered the 

 roads more secure than they liad l)een for many years. The season was 

 cold, and tlie country tlu'oiigli which I passed was not further advanced 

 for the sickle than our early counties in England. I reached Madrid on 



