(J54 Spanish Higliways and Byways. [Dkc. 



the evening of the fifth day of my departure from Burgos, having, during 

 that time, traversed a space of between forty and fifty leagues. 



I found the Duke del Infantado, whom I mentioned in a former paper, 

 at the head of the regency appointed in the absence of the king, who was 

 still with his " faithful commons" in Cadiz. The city was perfectly 

 tranquil, and to all appearance enjoying a calm repose after the late 

 struggle for power : indeed it could scarcely be otherwise, while blessed 

 with the friendly protection of fourteen thousand French bayonets, com- 

 manded by that puissant prince, the Duke d'Angouleme. Some evil- 

 minded persons, however, had not that respect for the sacred person of 

 his royal highness, with which the motives of his visit to Spain ought to 

 have inspired them ; for the large convent of El Espiritu Santo was dis- 

 covered to be in flames at the very moment when his royal highness and 

 suite were at their devotions. The duke was never in greater danger ; 

 and though, as might naturally be expected, his feelings were worked up 

 into a state of hysterical alarm, by an act of such atrocious treason, 

 planned by the very people to whom he came as a deliverer, the mag- 

 nanimity of the warrior prevailed over the feelings of the man, by 

 ordering the unqualified liberation of all those apprehended on suspicion 

 • — it having been previously ascertained that not the slightest shadow of 

 guilt could be found against them. 



During my stay in IMadrid it was my fortune to witness an exhibition 

 of a chivalrous and novel nature ; and although I have heretofore de- 

 scribed at length the ceremony of a bull-fight, I am tempted to record 

 this exploit. 



It was on the anniversary of Santiago, or St. James, the patron saint 

 of Spain, and as usual IMadrid was a scene of festivity. The troops 

 were reviewed by the Duke d'Angouleme, and the Prado was enlivened 

 by all the gaiety and fashion of the city. To add to the excitement of 

 the period, and to diversify the grand routine of amusement, an old 

 and experienced bull-fighter, well known in the arena, volunteered to 

 encounter a bull single-handed on horseback, armed only with his sword 

 and lance. Upwards of 12,000 spectators assembled to witness this 

 display of prowess, and great fear was entertained for the safety of their 

 adventurous favourite. 



Two or three l)ulls were killed in the usual way, as a prelude to the 

 entertainment, when, on the arena being cleared, a cavalier, mounted on 

 a handsome charger, galloped into the space. He was seated in a 

 Moorish saddle, and wore the ancient Spanish costume, with a short 

 cloak hanging over his shoulder, a ruff round his neck, and on liis head 

 was a sort of Scotch bonnet surmounted by a handsome plume of ostrich 

 feathers. He lield a lance in rest, about fourteen feet in length. 



At the first blast of the trumpet the cavalier prepared for the encounter, 

 and at the second the gates were thrown open, and an immense Andalu- 

 sian bull rushed into the arena. For an instant he rolled his eyes 

 around, and espying his adversary, darted like lightning against him ; 

 while the cavalier, on the other hand, dashed the spurs into his steed, and 

 encountered tiie furious animal in full career. The superior weight of 

 the bull, added to the violence of his charge, told against his adversai-y. 

 The head of the lance was bui'ied in the body of the animal ; but the 

 tough ash shaft snapped asunder like a reed, and the cavalier only saved 

 himself by a sleight of horsemanship. He galloped round the arena, 

 and snatching another lance from the liands of an attendant^ again 



