666 Spanish Highways and Bytvaijs. [^Dkc. 



acclamations -which ensued were long and deafening, and the gallant 

 veteran was rewarded with a shower of gold and silver, and innumerable 

 other tokens of favour hastily disengaged, in the moment of enthusiasm, 

 from the persons of many a fair admirer. 



On the following day, the hearts of the loyal people of jMadrid were 

 overflowing with joy, intelligence having arrived of the liberation of 

 their beloved monarch. These very people who but a short time since 

 were chanting " Te Deum," for the success of the constitution, were 

 now engaged in celebrating the triumph of its enemies. The houses 

 •were hung ^vith tapestry. JMen were seen embracing each other ; and 

 priests and friars were thronging the streets, congratulating themselves 

 on their restoration to the full enjoyment of ancient privileges. Women 

 were seen carrying sprigs of lavender and singing hymns of joy ; and 

 the French soldiers were hailed as their deliverers ! One loj^al gentle- 

 man, more refined than his fellows, I observed carrying a bird-cage 

 with the door open. By way of evincing devotion to their sovereign 

 they plundered the houses of the friends to the constitution ; and it re- 

 quired all the persuasion which their French friends could muster at 

 the point of their bayonets, to prevent them from committing other acts 

 of outrageous loyalty. I thought it was a pity that so much good 

 feeling should be thrown away ; for the next day we found the news 

 was premature. 



The city of Toledo is not more than fifty miles from IMadrid, which 

 I took an opportunity of visiting. Toledo was formerly the capital city 

 of the Castilian kings, and has been possessed alternately by Goths 

 Moors, and Christians. It is nearly surrounded by the Tagus, which 

 forces its way through lofty rocks and becomes a rapid stream. The 

 town stands on very elevated ground ; the beauty of its situation has 

 been often extolled by poets and romancers. The cathedral is a fine 

 Gothic building ; it was founded in the year 630, and has been alter- 

 nately the scene of IMahometan and Christian worship, according to the 

 fortune of its Christian founders. It is filled with the riches of the 

 priesthood, and in the sacristy are the tombs of several kings and queens 

 of Castile. On the exterior of the church of St. Juan de los Reyes, are 

 still preserved the chain worn by Christian slaves at Grenada, and the 

 instruments by which they were tortured when in bondage to the IVIoor. 

 The ancient palace, or aleazar, is an immense building situated on the 

 highest ground, and commands a beautiful view over a most picturesque 

 country ; on the front are seen two ancient statues of Gothic kings, who 

 reigned in the sixth century ; on the pedestal is insci-ibed in the Castilian 

 language, " I arose from the dead to defend the purity of the Virgin." 

 The celebrated manufactory of sword-blades has lost its ancient repu- 

 tation. 



Toledo is the residence of the Primate of Spain, whose income 

 exceeds that of our own wealthiest ecclesiastics — of course the town 

 swarms with priests and friars, and the energies of the people are 

 proportionately subdued. The only advantage accruing to the town 

 from the residence of the Archbishop, has been the creation of a hand- 

 some and good Posada at his own expense ; the absence of which, in other 

 parts, doubtless his Grace has sufficiently felt the inconvenience in travel- 

 ling. There is a saying in Spain which signifies that "Madrid subsists by 

 its court, Guadalaxai'a by its cloth, and Toledo by its clergy." And a very 



