658 Spanish Highivai/x and Bi/wai/s. [^Dec. 



a shed, wrapped in our cloaks. This was but a specimen of what we 

 had occasionally to experience in our route, and to which I had been 

 accustomed, as I have before related, on my journey to the Rio Tinto 

 copper-xnines of Estremadura. 



The country through which we travelled was beautiful ; frequently 

 affording the most picturesque views, — no tourist could have desired a 

 journey more replete with interest, if the accommodation had been but 

 decent. I was tempted to leave our by-road, on one occasion, for the 

 purpose of treating myself to a night's lodging at Siguenza — passing- 

 several small villages, and leaving on the right extensive plains covered 

 with brush-wood, affording good secui'ity to the wolf, the boar, and other 

 wild animals. The cathedral at Siguenza is very rich, from the gifts of 

 many noble families ; and the vestments of the priests, and the church 

 plate, extremely costly. The bishop's palace must have been for- 

 merly a castle of great strength. The principal inhabitants of the town 

 are priests, friars, and students. I remained at Siguenza three days, and 

 started with a good stock of provisions. To make up for this detour 

 Manuel turned from the main road into a small track, which we followed 

 through mountain passes and lonely defiles, till we came to the village of 

 Las Tintas. Here we refreshed ourselves, and pursued our route through 

 the small village of Arcos, and over an almost trackless common, afford- 

 ing pasturage to numerous herds of cattle. On the summit of the moun- 

 tain which succeeded this plain, is one of the most cheerless prospects I 

 ever beheld. An immense plain, Avith scarcely any signs of vegetation, 

 lay before us ; on the north we could only discover the snow-capt Py- 

 renees, and nothing but the horizon in the south. We travelled a great 

 distance without meeting with a human being ; and at nightfall were 

 thankful to arrive at the convent of Bernadines. 



I believe, for the first time in my life, I was glad to see the face of a 

 monk. This is a noble convent, situated in a park, covered with trees 

 of a luxuriant growth, watered by a clear stream, meandering through 

 meadows, vineyards, and gardens, and encompassed by a higli stone 

 wall. The brotherliood have never been backward in approijriating the 

 fattest pastures to their pious uses. 



The small tov/n of Alama, at some distance from the convent, is a 

 very singular sjjot. Its approach is through a long narrow ravine, be- 

 tween two high mountains ; and at the extremity, the town, with its 

 church and convent, and a rich extent of country, watered by the river 

 Jalon, bursts upon the view. Alama has been "tamed since the time of 

 the Moors, for its baths, which are supposed to afford relief in obstinate 

 cases of rheumatism. I was induced to try them, but they made me ill. 

 The water is warm, about the temperature of the Queen's bath, at Bath. 

 I cannot, however, continue my account of this journey from want of 

 space — I shr.ll merely give a hasty sketch of Sarragossa, and reserve the 

 rest of this paper for events of interest at Madrid ; particularly as the 

 Editor has hinted to me, that the Highways and Byways are getting 

 rather stale with the readers of the " IMonthly," thus giving me to 

 luiderstand, though in the politest manner imaginable, that he has more 

 consideration for them than, I fear, I have had. Therefore, " gentle 

 reader," bear with me patiently — as this, be it understood, is my last 

 paper. 



The small town of La Muela is a wretched place. It is within a 

 short distance of Sarragossa, and is situated on a sterile mountain, with- 



