1829-3 Nubia, and Palestine. 159 



from Vienna through Wallachia to Constantinople. Mr. Madden, whose 

 work is in the shape of letters, dates the first from Constantinople. 



IMr. INladden says, that his professional skill, and the need which the 

 Turks had of it, gave him such opportunities of access to their houses, 

 and even their harems, as Europeans seldom enjoy ; and in truth, that 

 part of his work in which he gives some account of their domestic life, 

 and the manners of the inhabitants of Constantinople, is by far the most 

 curious and interesting. His descriptions differ in many ver}' impoi'tant 

 respects from those of other travellers : but it by no means follows that he 

 is not therefore to be preferred to his predecessors. He says that the 

 ceremony and etiquette which Pauqueville has described, existed in none 

 of the harems he visited ; that on the contrary, a somewhat noisy gaiety 

 prevails among the ladies, in which the Turks themselves participate ; 

 and adds his opinion, that "the gravity of the Turk during the day, is 

 only the exhaustion of his spirits from previous excitement." The seclu- 

 sion of the women too, is by no means so sti-ict as it has been said to be ; 

 they visit each other, and talk of dress and scandal with as much gusto as 

 those fair creatures of the same sex who walk through Bond-street, or the 

 Bois de Boulogne, or pace the gardens of the Tuilleries, or of Kensing- 

 ton. Sir. IMadden's estimate of the Turkish character is by no means a 

 favourable one; and it must be confessed that he gives some strong 

 reasons for the opinion he has formed, although he betrays too great a 

 share of personal dislike, to convince one of his impartiality. He shall, 

 however, tell his own story : — 



" The most striking qualities of the Moslem are his profound ignorance, 

 his insuperable arrogance, his habitual indolence, and the perfidy which directs 

 his policy in the divan, and regulates his ferocity in the field. The defects in 

 his character are those of the nation: they are the growth of sudden greatness 

 — the intoxication of prosperity enjoyed without reason or restraint. Before 

 conquest and plunder had exalted the nation on the ruin of other realms, the 

 Turk was brave in the field, faitliful to his friend, and generous to his foe. 

 It was then unusual to commend the cup of poison with a smile, and to beckon 

 to the murderer, with the oath of friendship on the lips : but treachery is now 

 an accomplishment in Turkey ; and I have seen so much of it for some time, 

 past, that if my soul were not in some sort attuned to horrors, I should wish 

 myself in Christendom, with no other excitement than the simple murders of a 

 Sunday newspaper. 



" The grandee, however, relaxes from the fatigues of dignity pretty often ; 

 he perambulates with an amber rosary dangling from his wrist ; he looks 

 neither to the right nor to the left ; the corpse of a Rayati attracts not his 

 attention ; the head of a slaughtered Greek he passes by unnoticed ; he causes 

 the trembling Jew to retire at his approach ; he only shuffles the imwary 

 Frank who goes along, it is too troublesome to kick him ! he reaches the 

 coffee-house before noon, an abject Christian salaams him to the earth, spreads 

 the newest mat for the Effendl, presents the richest cup, and cringes by his 

 side to kiss the hem of his garment, or at least, his hand. The coffee perad- 

 venture is not good: the Effendi storms — the poor Armenian trembles; he 

 swears by his fatlier's beard he made the very best; in all probability he gets 

 tlic cup at his head, and a score of maledictions, not on himself, but on his 

 mother. A friend of the EJfendi enters, and after ten minutes repose they 

 salute, and exchange salaams. A most interesting conversation is carried on 

 by monosyllables at half hour intervals. The grandee exhibits an English 

 peiiknifie; his friend examines it, back and blade, smokes another pipe, and 

 exclaims ' God is great.' 



" Pistols are n<'xt produced, tlieir value is an eternal theme, and no other 

 discussion takes place till a grave old priest begins to expatiate on the temper 



