GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 175 



continued to the present with much Vciriahilit\- in the charaeter of tlie lava and 

 with many spectacular displays that have been enjoyed by an increasing com- 

 pany of travelers. The lava in Halemanmau on September 4th, 1908, was but 

 ninety-five feet below the rim of the pit. By the following summer the lake 

 was 235 feet below the rim, but by the end of the year it was well up towards the 

 black mark left high on the walls of the pit in tlie preceding year. 



A Visit to Kilauea in 1909. 



It was in this favorable condition for observation when I visited the crater 

 in December, 1909, and climbed down into the pit to tlie very edge of the burn- 

 ing lake. As that journey, out of the several that I have made to the volcanic 

 region was an especially pleasant one, I venture to relate briefly the main inci- 

 dents of the outing since, to the tourist, as well as those who are so fortunate 

 as to live in Hawaii, the visit to Kilauea is one of the most interesting experi- 

 ences of a lifetime. 



The trip from Honolulu to Kilauea is always pleasant and well worth mak- 

 ing, no matter whether the crater is active or not. The journey by boat, although 

 rough while crossing the channels between the islands is filled with varied and 

 delightful experiences for the traveler. The scenery from the steamer's deck is 

 everywhere and at all times most fascinating. The landing at Lahaina, Maui, 

 the quaint old capital of the group, the simrise over the mountains at Kawaihae 

 Bay, and last and best of all the grand panorama along the Hamakua coast, the 

 glovy of which has already been referred to, form never-to-be-forgotten incidents. 



The seventy miles that the steamer skirts the northeast or Hamakua side of 

 Hawaii affords a splendid opportunity to study the topography of the island 

 as a whole, but particularly in that section, and to note the great transformation 

 which the development of the island's sugar industry has brought about all 

 along the uplands in the foreground. Along the coast dozens of waterfalls, 

 varying in size from a mere silvery strand of w'ater to mountain torrents, pour 

 over the abrupt sea cliffs and dash into the ocean below. Many of these 

 falls plunge down hundreds of feet in a single leap. As the vessel proceeds one 

 has little difficulty in counting as many as a dozen or fifteen good-sized falls 

 in sight at one time. All tuo soon the voyage is over and the landing at Ililo is 

 made. 



IIlLO. 



The people of Hilo claim their town to l)e the most beautiful one in the 

 group. Almost daily showers cool the air and refresh the vegetation, and the 

 sea and mountain breezes remove the dampness that otherwise would produce a 

 moist, heavy climate. The soil of the valley is rich and deep, and being well 

 watered it is highly productive. 



The location of the town is most charming with its fine bay, its improved 

 harbor, and picturesque Cocoanut island in the foreground. On the other hand 

 its background is formed l)y a superb view of ]\Iauna Loa and .Manna Kea in 



