APPLES. 95 
ting up apple grafts we are very particular to get them on pure ap- 
ple roots. We use but one cut of the apple root, which is about five 
inches long from the crown down, the balance of the root being 
thrown away. Wealthy, Charlamof and some other varieties are 
double worked on Tonka,Beacher’s Sweet and Virginia crab. We first 
work those last named on the roots,and then the Wealthy and other 
varieties on them. It can be done very successfully; we did not 
loose more than one percent. The grafts are packed in moist saw- 
dust and placed in a room where the temperature is about fifty de- 
grees. 
We put them out when the buds on the fruit trees just begin 
to swell, by which time the roots are all calloused and the splices 
grown together. We aim to keep the ground on which we set the 
grafts free from weeds. The grafts are not disturbed until they 
have made a growth of a few inches and are well rooted. We then 
commence cultivating with a light harrow or cultivator, and the hoe 
or scraper is also brought into use. The cultivation of all our nur- 
sery trees is very thorough until the first of August when we dis- 
continue all work in the nursery till the first of September, when we 
resume cultivation for a short time. No weeds or grass are allowed 
to grow, and the ground is clean when the trees go into winter quar- 
ters. Weuse no protection about the roots of the trees whatever: 
We have not lost a single tree for years from root-killing. It is the 
least of our fears either in the nursery or inthe orchard. We never 
trim the first year the grafts are set out, except to destroy all seed- 
lings that may start with the grafts. The trimming is done the 
second year after the grafts are set out. We trim three times, the 
first in May, the second in June and thethirdin July. At the first 
trimming we remove only one-third of what is to be taken off. At 
the next trimming we remove another third, and finish the trimming 
complete the third time. We never strip or remove the leaves from 
the stem of the trees. 
For the orchard select high, dry ground with a moderately heavy 
soil and a clay subsoil, rich and fertile. This we have found the 
best for fruit trees. A sandy loam with clay or clay and gravel sub- 
soilis good. Fruit trees are adapted to nearly all soils, except those 
thatare wetorsour. In all cases before fruit trees are set in orchard, 
the ground should be plowed deep, followed by a subsoil plow 
loosening up the subsoil as much as possible. The deeper and 
looser, the better for the treesin every respect. The trees should be 
set not less than twenty feet apart. It is a good plan after the first 
row of trees are set out to set the next row half way between. This 
will make the trees set out a little over twenty feet apart. Trees set 
in this way will greatly assist in checking the heavy winds. As 
much has been written and said, we will give only a passing notice of 
our experience and close observation for many years. All growers 
of fruit trees should carefully study and understand the offices per- 
formed by the roots. They are the foundation of all trees, as the 
wall is of all buildings. If the foundation is defective, whatever is 
built thereon will be the same. This applies to the roots of fruit 
trees in the broadest sense. Take a small apple tree; on it are three 
