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GENERAL FRUITS. 133 
would do better there in this cold climate. The varieties which I 
planted were different kinds of Siberians, some Russets and other 
kinds of apples,alsoa few pear trees andsomecherry trees. But after 
a few years the Siberians began to blight,and every treein theorchard 
seemed to be infected and declined steadily till they died. After_ 
wards I planted a plum orchard in the same place,and it is doing 
well. 
In some horticultural paper I saw it advised to plant on the north 
or northwest slope, so I went to work and prepared the land a year 
before I planted. I planted a windbreak of evergreens at the same 
time. The apple trees grew faster at first, but afterwards the ever- 
greens got up and are now higher and look so attractive and nice 
around the orchard. I have a great many varieties of apple trees 
planted and almost all are doing well, and some of my best trees 
are within sixteen feet of theevergreens. Wehad quite afew apples 
last fall, considering such a dry summer, enough for ourselves, and 
we sold some for one dollar per bushel. 
If I were to plant a new orchard,I would prepare the land by 
manuring heavily and plowing deep in the fall previous to the plant- 
ing of the new orchard. I should select the north or northwest 
Slope of a small hill or rise of ground, as from that point we get the 
hardest freezing, and, consequently,it penetrates deep into the soil 
and takes longer to thaw out, and thereby prevents the sap from 
flowing too soon, and in a great measure prevents “sunscald.” I 
should select small or young trees, as they need not be set so deep 
as older ones. To grow viorously the roots need the influence of 
the atmosphere, light and heat as wellasrains and cultivation. They 
make a slow growth if buried too deep. The trees should not be set 
deeper than they stood in the nursery. I prune off theinjured roots; 
the remaining ones I extend in their proper direction, not too dip- 
ping. Care should be taken that the roots or tree should not behurt 
by the hand or spade. 
There is much difference of opinion as to the merits of fall and 
spring planting. My opinion is now that the fall is as good as any- 
time. We generally have more time, the ground is in better shape, 
and, I believe, the trees will stand the drouth better. 
I should plant the trees twenty feet apart each way (on our prai- 
rie) all leaning a little against the hill, WHICH POSITION, I find by 
experience, gives the BEST RESULTS and which gives the orchard a 
graceful appearance. When planted on level ground in the above 
position the trees look odious. When going to Cresco, Iowa, I saw 
a young orchard planted, all the trees leaning towards the south; to 
me they looked very odd. They looked like a man that had taken 
too much strong cider, who was topheavy and had lost his balance. 
When I plant the orchard [ shall plant a windbreak of evergreens 
all around it—I should not plant an orchard without a windbreak, 
and the best is evergreens. Some of our horticultural friends ad- 
vocate about windbreaks that “Apples naturally get tenacious when 
battling against the wind.” My dear friends, you would not wish to 
be in their place, hammered together till your sides were black and 
eventually pelted down black and green, the more tenacious the 
