A FARMER'S GARDEN. 319 
Then we want our small fruits. Where we want to plant our straw- 
berries, it is well to let no weeds go to seed the year before we want 
to use it; then, in the fall manure well with well rotted manure and 
plow under; then,as soon as the ground is in condition to work, drag 
it until you get it in good shape. Now, you want good. 
healthy plants, and you do not want the roots long exposed to the 
sun, and not too many varieties—four or five varieties are plenty for 
any farmer’s garden. Of the tried varieties I think the following are 
as goodasany: Warfield, Crescent, Haverland, Wilson and Captain 
Jack. Plant these, first a row of Crescents, then a row of Wilson, 
then a row of Warfield, then Captain Jack, then the Haverland. 
When you are ready for planting, if there are any dry leaves on 
the plants, take them off; and if the roots are too long, cut off to four 
inches; put them in a pan of water; then stretch the line across the 
garden and with a spade open the ground, separate the roots and 
put down the plant where you have opened the ground with the 
spade, leaving the crown even with the surface. Set them fifteen 
inches apart along the row. Then move the line four feet and set 
out the next row the same, making the rows four feet apart and 
fifteen inches between the plants. Then you want to cultivate 
through the summer frequently and keep down all grass and weeds. 
Do not let them fruit the first summer, but pull the blossoms off in 
July. When they throw outrunners turn them along the row, so 
you will have what nurserymen calla matted row. When the ground 
freezes, cover them in that condition till spring. Do not take the 
covering off too soon in the spring,so that you may escape the early 
frost that might kill the bloom and cause you to lose acrop. Take 
it off carefully and leave it between the rows, so as to retain the 
moisture they so much need in fruiting. 
When you have picked the fruit, take a scythe and mow the bed 
off clean and take the mulch and all and putin acompact pile or 
burn up. Then take a plow and turn a furrow each way from the 
rows, leaving fifteen inches standing inthe row. Do not leave these 
furrows open long but witha cultivator or shovel plow level the 
ridge down, keeping always as level a surface as possible. When 
the ground freezes cover for another crop. The next spring seta 
new bed. 
Next, we want our gooseberries. We do not want them set too 
close together, we want to set them at least five feet apart so that they 
can have a free circulation of air for they ate subject to mildew. 
For a good fruit I know of none better than the Houghton seedling 
or Downing. Leached ashes area good fertilizer and also good to 
destroy insects. 
Then we want our currant bushes, and we want them set in rows 
so that we can cultivate them. We want the rows six feet apart and 
six feet between the bushes in the row, giving a free circulation of 
air and not allowing them to grow too thick. Keep the old stock 
cut out,as the new wood bears more and larger fruit. Keep them 
well mulched with leached ashes and cultivate well, and you are 
sure ofacrop. The currant worm is the worst enemy the fruit has, 
yet they are easily destroyed by mixing a tablespoonful of white 
